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Devil's Lake Bouldering

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 11, 2009
Administrators: Jay Knower, Chris treggE
Views: 34,252 page views

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Jamie Emerson sticking the throw


Description 

This page contains all of the bouldering spots spread throughout the park. Split up now under different areas, mostly by which shore or bluff the bouldering follows.

Due to the ongoing explosion and fantastic bouldering renaissance at the Lake, please keep comments to informative ones under the problems if possible.

Fuzzy on "Trust Fund Slab" on the West Bluff, photo: Remo

Fuzzy starting Trust Fund.
Fuzzy starting Trust Fund.
Submitted By: Remo on Nov 5, 2009


Nic Oklobzija on FA of "Death of a Traveling Salesman" V5 X, photo: Steve Schultz
Nic on 'Death of a Traveling Salesman'. Note the pads waaaayy below.
Nic on 'Death of a Traveling Salesman'. Note the pads waaaayy below.
Submitted By: SteveSchultz on Nov 5, 2009


Katie on "Little Flatiron" V4 on the CCC trail, photo: Steve Schultz
She sent a couple goes later.
She sent a couple goes later.
Submitted By: SteveSchultz on Nov 2, 2009


Remo on "Sex and Chocolate" V7 @ Monolith, photo: ?
Hiking my foot for the throw.
Hiking my foot for the throw.
Submitted By: Remo on Jun 12, 2009


Steve Schultz on FA "Moj" V8 on West Bluff, photo: Runnells
Steve sending
Steve sending
Submitted By: Brian Runnells on Sep 30, 2009


Getting There 

See the directions under each specific area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Lake Bouldering:
Boulder right of Bark Biter   V2     Boulder, 20 feet   Monolith Area : Monolith Rocks
Horseshoes & Hand Grenades   V2     Boulder   East Bluff North : North Shore
Gay Gigolo   V2     Boulder   Greatest Show : Greatest Bluff
Intercourse Arete   V3     Boulder, 10 feet   West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
Dumpster Diving   V3     Boulder, 10 feet   500 ft. Boulder Field : Dumpster Boulder
Slope of Dadaism   V3     Boulder   Monolith Area : East of Trail Boulders
The Flatiron   V4     Boulder, Chipped, 10 feet   East Bluff Southeast : East Rampart Bouldering
Bark Biter   V4     Boulder, 10 feet   Monolith Area : Monolith Rocks
Recreational Vehicle   V4     Boulder, 20 feet   West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
Show Me The Kind   V4     Boulder   East Bluff North : North Shore
Shark's Fin Arete   V4-5     Boulder, 15 feet   Greatest Show : Greatest Bluff
The Ejaculator   V5-6     Boulder, 12 feet   South Bluff Bouldering : Ejaculator Area
Sex & Chocolate   V7     Boulder   Monolith Area : Monolith Rocks
Venus Rising   V7     Boulder, 10 feet   Monolith Area : Monolith Rocks
Anchorpoint   V7     Boulder, 10 feet   West Bluff South : Hogleg/Anchorpoint boulders
Beautiful Soup   V8     Boulder   West Bluff South : Jigga-Beautiful Soup
Perfect Medium   V8     Boulder, 15 feet   Monolith Area : Monolith Rocks
The Zipper   V8     Boulder   East Bluff Southeast : East Rampart Bouldering
Alpine Club   V9     Boulder   West Bluff South : Jigga-Beautiful Soup
Keymaker   V11     Boulder   West Bluff South : Jigga-Beautiful Soup
Browse More Classics in Devil's Lake Bouldering

Featured Route For Devil's Lake Bouldering
Oh yeah, the Saddle.

Saddle Sores V2  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : East Rampart Bouldering
Another one with interesting beta. SDS with hands on both sides of the roof and your back facing the wall. Pull your legs up and over until you have mounted the horse.Does anyone have a copy of the Rock and Ice issue that featured pictures of Eric sending this thing? If so please scan them in....[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


Photos of Devil's Lake Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
Lou Reed Boulder<br />Scene of many bouldering epics. Real and imagined.

BETA PHOTO: Lou Reed Boulder
Scene of many bouldering epics. R...

This boulder is in the "Slant" boulder field. This pic doesn't show it but in the next pic you will see the SEVERE narrow roof of this. We will call it the "Arrow Boulder".

BETA PHOTO: This boulder is in the "Slant" boulder field. This...

Severe overhang of the "Arrow Boulder".

BETA PHOTO: Severe overhang of the "Arrow Boulder".

This is in the Misery Gully between Misery Wall and Dutchman's Rampart.

BETA PHOTO: This is in the Misery Gully between Misery Wall an...

This is just below the Arrow Boulder

This is just below the Arrow Boulder

Downhill and a bit south of the arrow boulder.

Downhill and a bit south of the arrow boulder.

Overview of mostly the East and West Bluff bouldering.

BETA PHOTO: Overview of mostly the East and West Bluff boulder...


Comments on Devil's Lake Bouldering Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 10, 2009
By Paul Campbell
From: Menomonee Falls, WI
Aug 11, 2009

Not sure why but when you look at the Devil's Lake main page, on the left "area" menu Devil's Lake Bouldering is listed as having 0 routes...

By Paul Campbell
From: Menomonee Falls, WI
Aug 11, 2009

Also it seems we have two listings for the Chode Boulder.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 11, 2009

Paul, the route count takes a day or so to update. I've deleted the duplicate Chode Boulder. Thanks for the feedback.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 11, 2009

Aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh, much better!!!

Paul, as you know, there is no bouldering at Devil's Lake.

By Paul Campbell
From: Menomonee Falls, WI
Aug 11, 2009

That's what most of the general public thinks. That's why our route count needs to be HUGE!!! ^_^

By Nick Rhoads
Aug 11, 2009

Awesome, I was thinking about asking you guys to consolidate all the Bouldering. Beat me to it!

LOTS of potential around that "Slant" Boulder field on the West Bluff!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 12, 2009

Nice Jay, this is a much better way to distinguish the bouldering.

By SteveSchultz
Aug 12, 2009

Wow, I go to Noah's Ark for a day and things explode on here! So cool to see so many boulders coming up here!!!

By Paul Campbell
From: Menomonee Falls, WI
Sep 22, 2009

200 boulder problems are now documented for Devil's Lake. Impressive! Nice job guys!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 25, 2009

I moved stuff around based on conversations with Brian, Steve, and Remo. Suggestions are always welcome. Also check out http://wisconsinbouldering.blogspot.com/ for more beta.

Thanks Steve for making the outline, I think this will hopefully be a little easier to navigate geographically.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 4, 2009

In addition to the link in my post above for Steve's blog, you can find a West Bluff miniguide prepared by The Climbing Narc (click on the link in the second paragraph) here.

Also there is an older miniguide that does not include the West Bluff on this site. It looks like it used to include Tumbled Rocks (West Bluff) but the link has been lost.

By Tony Brengosz
Nov 10, 2009

anybody recognize the problem he's climbing in this photo?http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Bouldering/Nate_working_a>>>>>

By Tony Brengosz
Nov 10, 2009

I would also recommend just looking at his photos. Lots of stuff to get you psyched on bouldering at the lake. One especially cool picture of a sweet looking boulder on the south bluff somewhere.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/photos/search.cgi?query=>>>>>

By SteveSchultz
Nov 10, 2009

Tony, I think the line you're looking at is the Ejaculator. Pretty sure at least.

By Paul Campbell
From: Menomonee Falls, WI
Nov 10, 2009

Yeah Steve is right, thats the Ejaculator, I just compared a bunch of photos because I was wondering the same thing myself :)