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Monolith Rocks
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Arete 
Bark Biter 
Boulder right of Bark Biter 
Broken Pottery Left 
Broken Pottery Right 
Face 
Manhattan 
Perfect Medium 
Sex & Chocolate 
Shawn's Slab 
Spotted Cow Center 
Spotted Cow Far Left 
Spotted Cow Left 
Spotted Cow Right 
Thunderbird Bulge 
Venus Rising 

Sex & Chocolate 

V7

   

FA: 
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V7 [details]
Views: 730 page views

Submitted By: Brian Runnells on Mar 24, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Sex & Chocolate ascends using the arete and crimp...


Description 

Start on the face right of the arete and make your way to the slopey ledge at 3/4 height using invisible crimps and frictionless slopers. From here traverse right and off.


Location 

If you are facing the Venus rising boulder, continue on hiking trail for 50 feet and go right towards the lake past easy problems on the right. Angle around the backside of these boulders you pass and go down the hill hugging the cliff line on your right. Sex & Chocolate should be on your right.


Protection 

Landing is pretty benign.



Photos of Sex & Chocolate Slideshow Add Photo
Vince getting a little sex and chocolate.

Vince getting a little sex and chocolate.

Cool shot, my headlamp was doing wild things. Photo: B. Fellenz

Cool shot, my headlamp was doing wild things. Phot...

Visualizing the send, but it will have to wait.

Visualizing the send, but it will have to wait.

RV getting after it.

RV getting after it.

Eyeing the crimp.

Eyeing the crimp.

Hiking my foot for the throw.

Hiking my foot for the throw.

Kelsen channeling Louie Armstrong.

Kelsen channeling Louie Armstrong.

Rumors are true, Rhoads went bouldering(only after we went rope climbing).  Here he gets some Sex and Chocolate.

Rumors are true, Rhoads went bouldering(only after...

Vinny...blows.

Vinny...blows.

The cleaning crew on the direct.<br />Photo: Vince

The cleaning crew on the direct.
Photo: Vince



Comments on Sex & Chocolate Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 21, 2009
By Paul Campbell
From: Menomonee Falls, WI
Jan 21, 2009

I'm throwing some star ratings onto the harder boulder problems because they wouldn't show up in the "Best Routes for You in this area" without a quality rating.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 12, 2009
rating: V7

The dyno move is so far. I finally made a couple good goes, but man that is a big move.

By Nick Rhoads
Jul 2, 2009

Got on this thing to day, seemed nice but the friction was no good in the mild temps. A colder day would be much better.
Traverse right? I say "Sex and Chocolate Direct". I guess I'll have to do the bottom first though, eh?

By SteveSchultz
Jul 3, 2009

I've been saying the same thing for years rhoads. Direct looks doable. there are holds. we should throw a rope over it someday.

By Paul Jones
From: Milwwaukee, WI
Jul 11, 2009

Best, Hardest problem I ever did at The Lake. Brought my 70 year old parents there one year and did it for them. One of the most beautiful little areas in the park. Always feels special to be there.

By SteveSchultz
Oct 26, 2009

Big credit due to both Gabe and Aaron for sending this rig this past Saturday!! Nice work!!

By Dobbe
Oct 27, 2009

Gabe and Aaron had great beta. This thing always felt weird and today no problem.

By Langlois
Oct 27, 2009

Nice work! You'll have to share the beta on Saturday so Seth and I can embarrass ourselves

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 18, 2009
rating: V7

If you enjoy bouldering at the Lake, than this problem is a must try- great problem! I was going to go for the direct, but no spotter and a dirty head-wall did not spark confidence. A little bit of cleaning and I think the line to the left of the upper arete will go.

By SteveSchultz
Nov 18, 2009

Nice Remo! This thing is getting worked this year!!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
6 days ago
rating: V7

So we went up and cleaned off the upper part of S&C but failed to send. Both sides of the arete are in play, but the moves are tricky and high off the deck. Bring the spotters and all the pads you can round up.