Kris Gorny sending of Son of Great Chimney. Fanta...
Description
Devil's Lake is a state park in Wisconsin that contains some of the best rock climbing in the Midwest. Located in a picturesque setting, these quartzite rock cliffs of upwards of a hundred feet in height attract climbers from all over the country. Over 1600 routes are listed in the most recent guidebook. There is no shortage of climbable rock in the park.
Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Lynn Hill, John Sherman, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.
Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.
The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.
There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.
Bouldering
Devil's Lake has great bouldering. From the long established problems at Tombstone Rocks, to the neo-classics at the Reserve, there are many worthwhile areas. See Devil's Lake bouldering for more info on the wealth of problems that the Lake offers.
Organization
There are multiple cliffs in the area. These include the East Bluff, the West Bluff, the South Bluff, and the Sandstone Bluff. The greatest number of routes will be found on the East Bluff and West Bluff areas.
The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.
Location/Directions
Devil's Lake State Park is located NNW of Madison and just S of Baraboo. From the North, you can access it off I-90/I-94 to US 12 and head east following the signs. From the South, you can access it from I-90 to US 12/US 18 which skirts Madison on its southern edge, following this to US 12. From the East, you can access it from I-94 to I-90 S to US 12. From US 12, follow the signs into the park.
Guidebooks
The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.
Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.
Accomodations
There is nearby accomodations available in Baraboo, just to the North. Camping is available in or near the state park, but it can be quite popular.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Lake:
Sometime Crack is found on the monolith of rock that sticks out between the Pedestal Buttress and D'Arcy's Buttress. The climb faces southeast and is overhanging. Start out on a slabby piece of rock that is rated about 5.6. Climb the 10-15 feet to the top of this slab and you'll be standing on a ledge at the base of the crack. Climb the crack using jams (it's the only way in this case, so don't try to layback or you'll get spit off). At the ...[more]Browse More Classics in WI
Found Forgotten Gear at Devil's Lake East Bluff If you describe in detail what and where (there are distinct markings, gear types, and brands) then you have your gear back.
The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. It can also be found at Amazon.com. Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.
Shiprock is on highway 21 and is nothing more then a wayside/picnic area so having a large dog along(as long as he stays near you) will not be an issue in the least little bit. I am sure many motorists stop and use the place to water and walk a dog.
There are some top anchors to be found at the very center of the main summit block that are great for rapping off with (the rope pull is just fine). You can use this rap anchor to TR a few routes in close proximity to the anchor on both sides of the formation but other routes not close by will require lots of sling to adequately anchor (at least for a normal sling shot type of TR anchor).
There are a couple of bolted routes on the formation but mostly just Trad routes.
Not a lot of options for climbing in Adams county if you are talking about free access to climbing on public lands... There is a ton of rock (a lot of it crappy SS with small areas of OK rock in between - but also a couple of choice areas as well) that is on private land and good luck getting permission from the sorts that live up in the area.....
Does anyone know about the history of route-naming at Devil's Lake? I heard a rumor about conflict over route names between groups of male and female climbers in the 1950s and wanted to confirm the story and get more info.
Hi all, I'll be visiting "in-laws' in july, flying with a 2 year old and all that goes with that scene. Can I take just shoes and get on some boulders at Devils lake? How about a suggestion of "minimal' gear that can keep me moving up on some moderates on my vacation. Thanks.
I've never climbed in a gym. I'm not against them, it's just not convenient for me to drive to Madison from Portage when I can go to the Lake. But lately what on earth is going on in the climbing community? Lake has been way too crowded with yahoos on weekends ever since the late 80s, but on a recent Fri. afternoon top-ropers were knocking off huge rocks above me and never said a word. I was on belay for starting Jungle Jim and my partner was leading it. The buddy of the guy, who was dislodging everything on his way to the base of a climb, was setting up their top-rope anchor and said, not shouted, "Coming down" before throwing the rope. Where do these people learn to climb? Whatever happened to learning basic climbing commands and yelling, "Rock!" when you dislodge something that could take somebody's head off. No wonder accidents are occurring more frequently at the Lake. Yes, I know that probably 99% of the people hurt are scrambling hikers, etc., but the top-rope anchors and behavior I've seen over the past few years at the Lake scare the hell out of me.
This would be a great place to climb if it was not so crowded. Everyone and their brother seem like they are out at Devils Lake climbing. I would say that you shouldn't waste your time going, but then the other fun spots to climb would get crowded and ruin my climbing. But just thought I would put it out there for people to know. I had some friends from out of state go there and did not warn them about the crowds. They left totally pissed off, calling it an amusement park for climbing.
(Also beware of falling rocks! You have idiots causing rock or rocks to fall and never yell to warn anyone. Another reason I don't climb there anymore!)
I would say there are plenty of tucked away places to get away from the crowds at DL. I was out last Saturday and Sunday, and probably only saw a half dozen other climbers.
That said a sunny summer weekend at the East Rampart is a veritable zoo.
LOL. Thomas, your comment is hilarious. You must have been up on the East Rampart. That place is a zoo on the weekends. There are so many places at the lake that no one goes to and you can be alone all day. Looks like you need to do some more research before you head up to DL again. Check out the Sandstone area and the west bluff. Also, the falling rocks are due to stupid hikers throwing them off the cliff-side not thinking that anyone is down there. I yell up at them all the time "Hey there are people down here, stop throwing rocks" then if they don't stop, I say "Stop throwing fuckin rocks!!! There are people down here you idiots!!!" That usually stops them right away.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Sep 17, 2008
Lost/left a pair of five ten Newton climbing shoes near the Flatus Wall on the East Bluffs on Sunday Sept.21. If anyone has them or knows who may have picked them up, I'd love to have them back.
I am a new climber and would like to know who to get started with and where. I would not like to test gravity affect on the body without some training. Does anyone know off climbing clubs, guides, teachers that would be willing to help.
Next summer '09, I have a trip planned to go to devils lake. I was thinking about staying how ever long I wanted, no more than a week. I want to just chill and have a good time.
This is my question:
Where is the cheapest camping?? (if I spent a week i don't want to spend $20 a night, thats a bit much.) So if you could just point me in the right direction of cheap/free camping that would be great.
P.S. If need be, I can sleep in my car to save some money, but would like a place to put up a tent.
An interesting quote regarding climbing ethics at Devils Lake. Here's the exact paragraph (emphases by the authors):
"Remember that all the climbs except a very few have been lead...and that top-roping is not considered the legitimate form of climbing at the Lake. The easy access by trail to the top of the bluffs and short climbs is an excuse for practice, but not for competence"
"Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers, 1970.
I think you mean "style" (or lack of style), not "ethics."
I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here.
Doug, I stand corrected :) Thanks for the last remark although we were inspired by conversations with Dave Groth, ascents of Jason Huston, and videos of Dave Macleod. So the credit goes to these guys.
Huston is my hero! Too bad he's become a sport climber...(sigh).
There are still leads to be done at DL but I think "Ground Up" ascents of the 5.12's and up are the next level (Some have been done obviously). The placement of gear and tricky sequences would make these totally ground-breaking (pun not intended). Ground up ascents of the totally un-led projects would be A. the most dangerous thing I could think of and B. Mind blowing. Someone get Macleod on the phone!
I am also psyched to see these things going down! Friction season is just a few months away. Start making your list and checking it twice to see if the rock will be naughty or nice.
A climber (A real one) decked today on Birch Tree, possible spinal injury :( Any info on what happened? I heard a piece blew. How was the response time? Vince said his partner had to run down the trail for help. Is there an E Phone up there like on the West Bluff?
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jun 14, 2009
I hope s/he is ok. There is a phone on top, can't remember which buttress, maybe Hawk's Nest?
Hmmm..."The man...was climbing in an area not designated for that activity." That's right boys, they wash their hands clean of us, and they should! The LAST thing we want is bureaucratic control. Keep that in mind.
Twenty feet? Must have been a lead fall? Not a good place to hit the ground ....
The media (and everyone, really) often has a problem hearing "not a designated-use area" (note the hyphen). The WDNR manages areas that have designated uses, like trails and campgrounds, and also areas that have no designated use. The distinction if VERY important, because under State liability law, the WDNR must maintain areas which have designated uses so that they are safe for those uses. They have to clear brush off the trails; they have to remove dead limbs from the trees hanging over the campsites. All of the cliffs are areas that have no designated use, so the WDNR does not need to make them safe. In DNR-speak, these are "non-designated-use areas," which to the untrained ear sounds like someplace you are not supposed to be. Just like hunting areas (also generally "non-designated-use" areas), you are welcome to go there, but at your own risk.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Jul 12, 2009
Public shout out to Remo, Rhoads, and Steve (on his blogs) for all the recent posting and route updating on DL bouldering.
And Rhoads appears to be on a mission to MP up every piece of decent climbable rock within the State Park. It's great! Thanks Nick. Eventually you will run out but it's still along way off.
I was at Doorway Rocks on Saturday with Paul Campbell and Ed Wright. We heard the biggest rockfall I have ever heard at the lake. It sounded like it came from somewhere near the South Bluff. It was like the loudest thunder when it started, then you could hear the avalanche of rock it must have created as it tumbled down the talus. Pretty nerve racking to hear that at the lake. Did anyone else hear it?
By Garrett Soper From: Duluth, Minnesota Aug 17, 2009
Yeah, I too heard that rockfall. We weren't even sure what it was, but it was a pretty terrifying noise.
We've been bouldering up on the west bluff a couple times this year and have heard it. As far as I can tell it's just people dumping fresh gravel/stones for the cottages. Each time we've come down there have been new rock driveways in. The stuff is about baseball sized so it can make a pretty big noise.
Steve, I too have heard smaller sounds like that and doubted they were rockfall, and probably the gravel dumping as you say. I don't think this was the dumping of gravel. It sounded like a bomb went off and then rock tumbling/rumbling down the talus. The noise came from the South, or around the corner of the east, but not the West.
By Garrett Soper From: Duluth, Minnesota Aug 18, 2009
I have to agree with John. I don't think the noise I heard was the smaller rock fall. I heard it from the south too, and I agree that it sounded like a bomb went off. It was nothing like anything I've ever heard before.
HAHA! Super funny guys! I know what you're talking about now. I encourage you to Google "Badger Ammunition Plant" for beta on those bomb sounds. Classic!
By Garrett Soper From: Duluth, Minnesota Aug 20, 2009
Ha, oh thats hilarious. That makes sense.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 25, 2009
I think that the Badger Ammunition Plant has been out of commission since the Cold War.
This is true Jay, but they are in the process of dismantling the whole thing along with destroying decaying bombs and structures. Hence, our "rock fall". Can anyone confirm my claims? I've heard these sounds for many years and from my research I figured it was coming from Badger.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Aug 25, 2009
We were at Balanced Rock on Sunday and heard 2 loud sounds that were more like explosives than anything, but very distant. I grew up going to a lake place near Fort Ripley in MN and it sounded like similar munitions. According to Wikipedia, which clearly is the current world knowledge base and exceedingly accurate, it's probable that it came from there.
I lost my wedding ring somewhere between the CCC lot and Brinton's Butress on 10/10. It's a beat up gold band. I looked for it for 3 hours this morning to no avail. In the event that anyone finds it please! contact me. As you can imagine I'm in hot water.
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