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 ADVANCED
Y - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beastie Crack T,TR 
Boy Scout (aka Broadway) T,TR 
Flat-footed T,TR 
Hard Start TR 
Herb's Roof T,TR 
Hessing Route T,TR 
Inside Dihedral T,TR 
Left Mother T,TR 
Less-Hard Start T,TR 
Lizard Man T 
Middle Mother T,TR 
Nose, The TR 
Notch, The T,TR 
Open Book T,TR 
Original Open Book T,TR 
Porter Route T 
Ramp, The T,TR 
Rigid Deffacator T 
Triple Overhang T,TR 
Wisconsin T,TR 

Wisconsin 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Larry Campbell- Spring 1971 FFA: Len Margolin, Steve Schum, and Mike Roybal- Summer 1971
Page Views: 952
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jan 30, 2008

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Description 

Wisconsin is one of the cleanest and longest face climbs at the Y, and is the classic 5.10 at this crag. It starts just right of the cave.

Begin with a traverse to the right, then up easy cracks to a slot. Make an awkward mantle out of this slot onto a non-relaxing ledge. Next comes the crux of the route, where you reach the cracks whose outline resembles the state of Wisconsin. Good pro is available but might be considered a bit tricky. Beta for the crux is to reach out right and lieback to a high reach. Small gear can be placed atop the 'Wisconsin' flake, then run it out to the top on easier cracks.


Location 

This climb is on the north side, starting just to the right of the obvious cave. It heads nearly straight up a slightly overhanging crack system with the cracks 2/3 of the way up describing a shape that loosely resembles like the state of Wisconsin.


Protection 

Nuts + cams to 2".
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed by unknown parties to prevent further damage to trees.



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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 23, 2008

This is a memorable route.
How can the FFA occur before the FA?

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Correction: This climb has seen an inadvertent, toprope-turned-freesolo ascent by Mark Schraad, when an extraordinarily inane student in the LA Mountaineers' course took apart the anchor before checking to see if anybody was climbing up. Needless to say, it was the last time Mr. Schraad volunteered to teach with the Mountaineers.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 23, 2008

Yipes! My dad threw up a bunch of topropes on these cliffs in the mid 70's, it was my first rock climbing experience. I don't think I managed to make it up this route back then, but I came back 20 years later to finally climb it (on toprope). The basalt was always so slippery and hot in the summer!