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Wisconsin Ice Conditions?
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By Tradoholic
Jan 23, 2012

G Dodge? Lone Rock? Wyalusing? Anything?


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By bdaw
From Monmouth, IL
Jan 23, 2012
me

I was at Wyalusing a week and a half ago with a friend and the main flow didn't have anywhere near enough ice to go. We hiked up the tracks a few hundred yards and messed around on a small 20 foot flow that was covered since we were already there, but it certainly wouldn't be worth driving up just for that. From the road, the quarry didn't look like it had much on it either.


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jan 23, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

Hey Nick:

I was at Wyalusing quarry on Saturday the 21st. It's pretty grim thus far. We did manage to TR a couple of lines on Quarry Monster but it was thin and very brittle. I posted pics on ClimbingCentral.com so you can see for yourself. Hopefully the thaw/freeze cycle we are currently in weather wise will fatten it all up because there was very little water running at either site at Wylusing on Saturday past..

BURT


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Jan 23, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

What a bummer... Vegas has ice. Come out here.


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jan 23, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

Oh ya... making tentative plans for Red Rocks over spring break coming up.... very end of March and start of April. Ice in Vegas? Up on Charleston?


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By Gokul
Jan 23, 2012
At the "summit"

I climbed some ice at Lone Rock about 4 weeks ago, but it was kinda thin near the top, and the week of warm temps that followed must almost certainly have killed what little ice there was. Haven't been back since.


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By Tradoholic
Jan 23, 2012

Burt, yea look up Mt Charleston ice on MP, there looks to be a pretty sweet route!


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By Lee Berg
From Madison, Wi
Jan 23, 2012
1st time ice climbing at G Dodge!

Top roped Stephen Falls at Gov. Dodge. on Sunday the 22nd.

I live in Madison and it was hardly worth the drive:


The top of the face = no ice.
The bottom of the face = no ice except for about a 2 foot wide section. The "middle" of the face actually has some half-way decent spots on it,

We stopped climbing pretty early because what was on the wall was busting up pretty good. What you see in the picture is the greatest concentration of ice on the wall but that's about all there is, not enough to even put a screw in.


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Jan 23, 2012
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Burt, be sure to drop a line before you head to Vegas and I'll get you my number. Do you have a partner lined up? We should do some climbing while you're out here. I missed Gorny when he was here so I'd like to see some more Wisconsin folks. Rhoads, when are you coming here next?


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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From Madison, WI
Jan 24, 2012
Trying to stay warm up on Brownstone Wall Red Rocks, NV

Hey Andy. I will do just that and let you know when and where I will be in Vegas area climbing. Spring break week for UW is March 31st to April 8th this year and the plan is to come out for all of that week. 3 folks have committed so far.... I would love the chance to climb with you.


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By Tradoholic
Jan 28, 2012

At G Dodge Stephens Falls is a no go, the other falls are ok but doable. At Lone Rock both lines are in and each have one solid line. Not anything leadable though.


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By Gokul
Jan 29, 2012
At the "summit"

Yesterday, I climbed with Doug H and others at Lone Rock and G-Dodge. Far as I could tell, only one of the two flows at Lone Rock was in, but this is my first season there so I might be mistaken. Stevens Falls was thin and broken up throughout, though there appeared to be a continuous line on the far right side of the wall.


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By ellen1298
Feb 8, 2012

is it safe to assume that last weeks insanely warm temps melted whatever was left at Lone Rock and G Dodge?


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By Gokul
Feb 8, 2012
At the "summit"

G Dodge is almost certainly all gone. Lone Rock might still have a thin but climbable column.


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By Tradoholic
Feb 8, 2012

Ellen, it might be ok. LR is totally north facing and yes its been warm but its been below freezing at night, which might make it pretty good. Wyalusing probably gets too much sun though.


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By Gokul
Feb 12, 2012
At the "summit"

Cox Hollow/Enee Point at G Dodge is now in again. Led up both the left and right side flows today.


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By alpinejason
From Eau Claire
Feb 14, 2012

The western flow at Lone Rock was climbable last weekend. Some of the curtain has delaminated from the rock but the fat ice portion is good to go.

The other flow looked to be about 10ft short of touchdown. Didn't rap in to look though.

The river was wide open so best bet is to belay from above.


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By Juggler
Feb 20, 2012
Ice at SR

Wyalusing was nice this past wknd.

Hidden ice
Hidden ice


quarry monster had a good route
quarry monster had a good route


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By Juggler
Feb 28, 2012
Ice at SR

here's the Lone Rock fall on the river... looking good, from the air

Lone Rock
Lone Rock


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By Chad Robbins
Feb 28, 2012

Cool, that little hidden climb is nice. Did you find that up the road from the quarry?
Wanted to stop and climb with you last weekend but ended up finding another hidden gem near Backbone in IA...


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By Juggler
Mar 1, 2012
Ice at SR

Here is what the railroad tracks looked like last wknd.

Not much ice
Not much ice


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By Tradoholic
Mar 2, 2012

That looks pretty grim. But the quarry was leadable? How about Eagle Eyes?


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By Juggler
Mar 3, 2012
Ice at SR

No leading, too thin and soft. Eagle eye was not even in. Only one line on the monster was doable but fun to blast up. Its gonna be worse this week


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By Gokul
Mar 4, 2012
At the "summit"

Climbed at Lone Rock today. Billy Breathes is getting real thin, probably won't survive the week. First Tube looked thinner (looking from the bridge - didn't rap down).


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By Juggler
Oct 2, 2012
Ice at SR

Wisconsin may not have ice but we were warming up our silo last Sat. evening by dry tooling.... cook out and bon fire too. Slack lining was a plus!


silo
silo




slack'in it!
slack'in it!



Reach!
Reach!


Grill'in and Chill'in
Grill'in and Chill'in


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By Woodchuck ATC
Oct 2, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Lots of great tool placements on the silo. Both on cracks, steel bands, and the glue on rocks. Upside down hooks for crankin' on. Lots of fun it surely was.


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