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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
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Wired 
X-Wing 
Young, Blonde, and Easy 
Your Basic Lieback 

Wired 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P. Ellinwood, D. Rice, 1977
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach this climb and belay as described for Forbidden Planet, which is just to its right side.

Start up a right-facing dihedral to the left until it is possible to move up and to the right in a right-leaning crack. Place gear and move up and right, following the crack to its intersection with the left-facing dihedral (a 5.9- appropriately named "Dihedral") to your right. You will intersect the dihedral near a flake. Place good gear and step up and left until a good ledge is reached.

Go up and right to rap from the top of Forbidden Planet.


Protection 

Small nuts and a few cams.

This climb is protected by some questionable small gear and is certainly not a great route to press your level on.



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By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 4, 2003

For leading, I'd suggest 1 ~red Alien sized, a #2 Camalot for the end, and then a few nuts/RPs no bigger than #4 stopper. We TR'ed in and fiddled with pro for a bit, everything was a little questionable.

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
May 10, 2004

I concur with the "s" rating here, the pro is rather difficult to place and it's small. I used two #2 and two #3 RPs to protect fairly sustained moves, plus the gear mentioned above. The RPs might hold with Screamers, but better not to fall on the first half as that ledge is never too far below.Fun climb, maybe a bit harder than 9+, but probably not a good route for a 5.9 or 10- leader.

By chris w
Dec 5, 2005

This is a great climb in practicing with RPs, HB's offsets and small wires placements. Place a lot because if you fall swinging in the corner or decking is very likely. A [reasonable] lead for a solid 5.9 leader. Chris W.

By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

This is a dangerous climb. I'm 6'1'' an could barely reach over to the flake to place the number two before doing the very committing and thin crux. A shorter person probably wouldn't be able to protect the crux making this climb very serious or X rated. I thought I'd be able to get a nut in the crack, but the crack was just too thin. Any placement would have been more for mental benefit and probably wouldn't have protected a fall. This would be a very nice toprope however.