|The Dark Side
|Seasonal Raptor Closures.|
This fine route begins with some interesting stemming and liebacking. After the second bolt, move up and right to the arete on big holds. The fourth bolt, which protects the crux, can be clipped from a nice stance. The crux itself is a neat boulder problem involving a crimper rail, sidepull slapping, feet trickery and a deadpoint to a good right hand from which to clip the next bolt.
From here, things ease up, but not too much as you're left pumped and pulling up to a strenuous mantel before finishing on a slightly runout but easy slab.
It is also apparently possible to go out right at the crux on larger holds, bringing the grade down to 11b.
Look for the cleanly cut column forming a roof at about 20' with a bolt at its lip. This line begins just left of here in a L-facing corner.
After the crux, ascend directly up the bolt line, ignoring the two bolts splitting leftward which mark the finish for Fotzhobel 12c.
6 Bolts to anchors consisting of 2 Metolius rap hangers and 2 chains.
The hanger on the stud protecting the crux appears to be from the FA and could probably use replacement. The rest of the hardware is modern.
|Comments on Wire Brush Hair Cut
From: SL UT
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
I always found it easier to do all the moves through the crux and clip from a better hold up higher...longer fall potential, but less chance blowing the crux clip. Those homemade hangers are a bit un-nerving... they used to be found on chassin' a snake too, but were replaced in 2005 or so... They are also found on Flight 1713 in Scary Canyon.
Oct 7, 2012
I agree with you, Heller. I thought that clipping the 5th bolt from below would have been nearly impossible (for me).
The fourth bolt, which is easy to clip, protects the crux, but is at, or below, your feet when you are making the last difficult move. But it's nothing but air below.