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Winterstock South face

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Winterstock South face  


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Location: 46.6186, 8.4619 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 25, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: five star accommodations at the plateau underneath...

Description 

The south face of the Winterstock is a wonderfully tranquil, secluded venue, some distance from the popular hiking trails. It tends to be less crowded than other areas in the Furka region, perhaps due to the limited itinerary.

The rock is impeccable granite, solid from bottom to top.

The face gets sun fairly early in the morning, and stays in the sun until mid/late afternoon.

Topos for some routes can be found in the plaisir-ost guidebook, and for others in the SAC guidebook.

Getting There 

The approach begins from Tiefenbach, on the east side of the the Furka pass. Park there or pay a nominal fee for use of a former military road that will gain you some elevation and cut your approach time by 15-20 minutes. There is a clear trailhead for the approach to the hut.

To reach Winterstock, one can take the approach to the hut and then proceed on a trail behind the hut to the east, but it is quicker to head east at the parking place on the old military road and then proceed north in a straight shot towards Winterstock (red/white trail).

Whether approaching on the trail from the west, behind the hut, or the trail from the south, at the point that the two connect there is a trail for the "Lochbergluecke" marked with blue/white stripes, which heads north through a boulder field. After a short elevation gain (extensive trail markings), a plateau with fantastic ponds and streams presents itself. The blue/white trail continues to the east/northeast. Leave this trail and continue north across the small plateau and up the final slope (faint yellow markings). Cut left midway up the final slope to access the south face. The routes begin from a huge, grassy terrace, which is most commonly accessed by a short scramble (marked with cairns), but can also be accessed from below (1 easy pitch, many variations possible).

The approach from the military road is around 90 minutes.


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.8 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Winterstock South face
Splitter crack on pitch two of Mangolyto - note also the steep snow at the base of the climb, referred to in the route description.  we left the boots at the first bolt.

Mangolyto 6a 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Switzerland : ... : Winterstock South face
A fantastic route, very homogeneous and sustained in difficulty, yet highly varied. The line includes friction slabs, cracks to jam, layback cracks, and face climbing on small, positive holds.The pitches go at 6a-, 5c+, 6a, 6a, 5c+, 5b, 6a, 5b. Routefinding is easy, just follow the bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Winterstock South face Slideshow Add Photo
Winterstock south face - all routes begin from the large grassy terrace, which is easily accessed by traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Winterstock south face - all routes begin from the...
Looking south from the Plateau underneath the Winterstock
Looking south from the Plateau underneath the Wint...
Winterstock on the left, Lochberg on the right
BETA PHOTO: Winterstock on the left, Lochberg on the right
Winterstock - the south face routes all ascend the right-most face, topping out on the ridge
Winterstock - the south face routes all ascend the...
Along the trail heading home from the Winterstock
Along the trail heading home from the Winterstock
Winterstock, from just above the clouds
Winterstock, from just above the clouds

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