Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Winterstock South face
Petzl Laser Sonic Ice Screw

$59.95 25% off

$44.96

at Backcountry

   more...
Metolius Neon Fun Pack Pack 35 pack

$189.99 37% off

$118.99

at AlsSports

217    more...
Patagonia Men's Interlodge Down Jacket

$599.00 50% off

$299.50

at Patagonia

19    more...
Black Diamond Mondo Crash Pad

$399.95 20% off

$319.96

at Backcountry

7    more...
Rio Streamertip Fly Line WF8FI

$69.99 28% off

$49.99

at AlsSports

63    more...
MSR Reactor Pot

$69.99 30% off

$48.99

at AlsSports

3    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mangolyto 6a 
Schindlewäg 5c+ 
Schwoabaweg 5c 

Winterstock South face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 46.6186, 8.4619 Map
Page Views: 548. Good page?   
Administrators: Dan Flynn, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 25, 2011

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO: Winterstock south face - all routes begin from the...

Description 

The south face of the Winterstock is a wonderfully tranquil, secluded venue, some distance from the popular hiking trails. It tends to be less crowded than other areas in the Furka region, perhaps due to the limited itinerary.

The rock is impeccable granite, solid from bottom to top.

The face gets sun fairly early in the morning, and stays in the sun until mid/late afternoon.

Topos for some routes can be found in the plaisir-ost guidebook, and for others in the SAC guidebook.


Getting There 

The approach begins from Tiefenbach, on the east side of the the Furka pass. Park there or pay a nominal fee for use of a former military road that will gain you some elevation and cut your approach time by 15-20 minutes. There is a clear trailhead for the approach to the hut.

To reach Winterstock, one can take the approach to the hut and then proceed on a trail behind the hut to the east, but it is quicker to head east at the parking place on the old military road and then proceed north in a straight shot towards Winterstock (red/white trail).

Whether approaching on the trail from the west, behind the hut, or the trail from the south, at the point that the two connect there is a trail for the "Lochbergluecke" marked with blue/white stripes, which heads north through a boulder field. After a short elevation gain (extensive trail markings), a plateau with fantastic ponds and streams presents itself. The blue/white trail continues to the east/northeast. Leave this trail and continue north across the small plateau and up the final slope (faint yellow markings). Cut left midway up the final slope to access the south face. The routes begin from a huge, grassy terrace, which is most commonly accessed by a short scramble (marked with cairns), but can also be accessed from below (1 easy pitch, many variations possible).

The approach from the military road is around 90 minutes.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Winterstock South face:
Schwoabaweg 5c   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III   
Schindlewäg 5c+   5.9+     Trad, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade III   
Mangolyto 6a   5.10a     Sport, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Winterstock South face

Featured Route For Winterstock South face
Splitter crack on pitch two of Mangolyto - note also the steep snow at the base of the climb, referred to in the route description.  we left the boots at the first bolt.

Mangolyto 6a 5.10a  International : Europe : ... : Winterstock South face
A fantastic route, very homogeneous and sustained in difficulty, yet highly varied. The line includes friction slabs, cracks to jam, layback cracks, and face climbing on small, positive holds.The pitches go at 6a-, 5c+, 6a, 6a, 5c+, 5b, 6a, 5b. Routefinding is easy, just follow the bolts....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Winterstock South face Slideshow Add Photo
Looking south from the Plateau underneath the Winterstock

Looking south from the Plateau underneath the Wint...

five star accommodations at the plateau underneath the Winterstock

BETA PHOTO: five star accommodations at the plateau underneath...

Along the trail heading home from the Winterstock

Along the trail heading home from the Winterstock

Winterstock - the south face routes all ascend the right-most face, topping out on the ridge

Winterstock - the south face routes all ascend the...

Winterstock on the left, Lochberg on the right

BETA PHOTO: Winterstock on the left, Lochberg on the right

Winterstock, from just above the clouds

Winterstock, from just above the clouds