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Winter Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Basalt Therapy T 
Blind Faith S 
Gopher Broke S 
Grape Ape S 
Hellboy S 
Highly Caffenated T 
Highway to Hell T 
Naked Lunch S 
Old Sling T 
Old Sling Straightened T 
Original Face Route T 
Pale Face S 
Post Moderate S 
Protein Supplement S 
Roid Boys S 
Sunbaked S 
Trough, The T 
Vitaman T 
Xibalba S 

Winter Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 28,350
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Clear
92° | 59°
Clear
91° | 57°
Partly Cloudy
89° | 57°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
81° | 56°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
77° | 57°
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Sun Devil/ Winter Wall Routes. Complement...

Description 

Sunny area to climb during the winter months. Be careful on many of the routes on this wall, despite some absolute gems, many of the routes look and can be a little chossy. However, there are some classic lines here.


Getting There 

See map photo at front. Hard to miss as it is directly in front as you as you enter the parking area!


Climbs (left to right) 

See also the beta photo and the online guide by Rick Bradshaw, but some new climbs have been put up. Hope this list helps you find to find them!

The approach trail hits this wall at the left end. Go up the hill to the right to the climbs on Winter Wall, (from left to right):
Xibalba (5.11a, sport, 1 rope ok)
Basalt Therapy (5.10a, trad with some bolts, 2 ropes to rappel)
Pale Face (5.11+, sport, 70m or 2 ropes to rappel)
Grape Ape (5.10c, sport, 2 ropes to rappel)
Highly Caffenated (5.10-, trad, 1 rope ok)
Post Moderate (5.9, sport, 2 ropes recommended)
Hellboy (5.8+, sport, 2 ropes recommended)
Highway to Hell (5.8, trad, 70m or 2 ropes to rappel)
Naked Lunch (5.10, sport, 2 ropes to rappel)
Original Face Route (5.8, trad with some bolts, 1 rope ok)
Blind Faith (5.11a, sport, 2 ropes to rappel)
Roid Boys (5.10a, sport, 1 60m rope ok)
Old Sling (5.8, trad, 1 60m rope ok)
Vitaman (5.10a, trad, 1 rope ok)
Old Sling Straightened (5.10-, trad with some bolts, walk off to right)
The Trough (5.7, trad)
Protein Supplement (5.10-, sport with 1-2 optional gear placements, 1 rope ok)
Sunbaked (5.10, sport, 1 rope ok)


Climbing Season


19 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',11],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Winter Wall:
Hellboy   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Post Moderate   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Roid Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 104'   
Old Sling Straightened   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Protein Supplement   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Sunbaked   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Naked Lunch   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Gopher Broke   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Grape Ape   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 150'   
Xibalba   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Blind Faith   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 150'   
Pale Face   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Classics in Winter Wall

Featured Route For Winter Wall
Pulling the ledgy face moves (and trailing  George's heavy 11mm rope!) near the top of Blind Faith.

Blind Faith 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Winter Wall
A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Winter Wall Slideshow Add Photo
More detailed picture of Grape Ape (#4), and Post Moderate (#6). Post where post moderate starts circled.
BETA PHOTO: More detailed picture of Grape Ape (#4), and...
Comments on Winter Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008

There were three routes (and one started) on this wall when Tom Wezwick and I came to the wall during the later 90s. The Original Face Route existed, there was a sling in the crack we called Old Sling, the crack now called Highway to Hell and the start of an arete to the right of Highway (about three bolts up).

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009

If you do happen to establish new lines on this wall, cool. But please clean as much as possible before you actually install bolts and call it done. Be patient with it and do a good and thorough job. Don't just assume that it will clean up with the climbing of others on lead. This puts not only the climber, but the belayer in real danger. I have always believed that the helmet was a mandatory piece of gear at Diablo, especially the Winter Wall. Nuff' said.

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009

Karl,
I don't remember a sling on Highway To Hell when we did it. You must be thinking of a different line. I know there was a sling on the offwidth left of Sun Devil. And the arete to the right had four bolts on it with a biner on the last one. That section was 5.7. I don't know who pt those in.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009

Great point, Scott. As one that has recently established a new line on the winter wall and spent a great deal of time cleaning it, I know this to be true. Even after quite a bit of time cleaning it, I still heard a lot of people complaining about loose rock.

A winter or two ago a large chunk of rock pulled loose on a leader on the very popular Post Moderate route resulting in a couple of broken ankles for the leader. This goes to show just how bad the rock can get due to its location and aspect (and relatively poor quality to begin with.)

In addition to new routers cleaning the routes as they put them in, I believe all climbers that climb on this wall should not just always wear a helmet but adopt a new attitude about climbing...the rock is dubious...tread lightly, lower expectations and bitch less about the route developers cleaning job. The rock is constantly "evolving".

By Karl Kiser
Mar 6, 2009

Highway to Hell had slings on the anchor bolts. We replaced these with chain later. The Old Sling Route uphill was named for a single sling in the crack. We wanted Bradshaw's guide to name the trad route right of Roid Boys.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 5, 2011

To whomever is stashing their tarp near the Winter Wall:

Please consider NOT stashing your tarp in the bushes below the wall. While I understand that Diablo is dusty and tarps are nice (I have used them in the past), stashing them in the bushes is problematic for a number of reasons.

1) It makes the place look trashy. I know that the NM climbing community is relatively small, but if everyone stashed a tarp, the place would look like crap....and no, just because the locals occasionally dump a sofa in the desert doesn't mean that we shouldn't treat the place better than they do.

2) Rodents can and will chew apart your tarp and leave litter EVERYWHERE. This is what happened to your tarp. Huge chunks of it were spread virtually all over the base of the crag making an absolute mess. I picked up what I could and hauled it out to the trash.

In the future, I won't wait for the rodents to destroy tarps; I will simply be taking any tarps I find at the crag with me when I leave. If anyone posts up that they are missing their tarp, I would then be happy to return it to them.

Cheers.