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Climb crux slab to first bolt. Move up then right towards left side of flake (5.3 R). Straight up off flake follow the bolt to the ledge. Pull ledge and use bolted anchors. Double up the gear in the flake after the runout to prevent a zipper.
20' left of Stranger than Friction in front of a large flat rock.
Quickdraws, light rack TCUs to #3 camalot
Thin moves above first bolt.
Pulling through the left side of the flake
Ledge before the anchors.
|Comments on Winter Solstice
|By Mark O'Neal|
From: Nicholson, GA
Nov 24, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
I'm not sure I've ever understood exactly what this climb is supposed to be. You can trend out right to the flake, but there are two bolts directly above the 1st bolt. Why would I go way out to the flake for an R rated climb?
I lead "it" today. Went straight up from the 1st bolt thru two more bolts. A 0.3 C4 in a horizontal protects the run out between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Then finished on the 2 bolt anchor for Shock Treatment (which is through the weakness in the roof to the left). There is a 5th bolt to protect the roof move.