|Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Thin and continuous for much of it's length this challenging face route is best done when conditions are cold and crisp. Although runout in spots it's not dangerously so and probably doesn't deserve an "R" rating like the current guidebook suggests.
Climb a thin flake system, passing a black knob, and work up left and then back right to reach the 3rd bolt and the start of the difficulties. Move slightly right and up on tiny edges/friction (crux) to reach the 4th bolt and then continue up gradually more featured face to the top.
Although originally rated 5.11a this climb has gotten more difficut as it gets more polished and some of the tiny and crucial holds have broken off.
Immediately left of Arcy Farcy.
5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (100' rap)
A mantle or high step and a long reach here gets y...
You can see the first 3 bolts of the climb in this...
Since there is nothing for hands and feet to speak...
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a R
Truly frantic smearing, stop and fall off.
|By Paul Rezucha|
Jun 6, 2006
After being told by a nice local climber that this route was 10d, I was shocked and amazed at the lack of holds, size of holds, and difficulty of this rather smooth face. 10d, 10d, man am I out of shape! Am I blind? 10d, 10d, I could never, ever lead this. After a wrong hand mantle and desperate hard move to good holds at the first bolt, the climb continues up with almost nothing for hands and feet. At many places you wonder why the boots are sticking and why you are not on the rope. It is a LONG way from 3rd to 4th bolt and although much easier climbing (maybe 10c) than the crux between 2nd and 3rd bolt, this would be an incredibly bold lead. Good job first ascent party and anyone with a successful lead! I was relieved to find out that the 10d referred to was probably Arcy Farcy just to the right.
|By tom donnelly|
Jul 30, 2007
Originally the route was 11a, back when I lead it.
Many people toprope it now that there are convenience anchors at the top.
This results in a lot of feeble attempts with lots of slipping by people who are not up for the lead.
Which results in much faster polishing of the holds than would have happened without the convenience anchors, so now it's quite a bit harder.
Which results in even more people not wanting to lead it.
Me for instance.
From: Northern NM
Feb 2, 2010
I was fortunate to get one of the earlier ascents of this route. As I recall I found it sketchiest near the top due to a lot of loose flakes. Good climbing though. 11a at that time.
Jul 9, 2010
This thing is pretty tough. Did it in the 80s, 90s and again a few years ago. Could be approaching 11d.
|By Indira Lower|
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a PG13
I loved this climb. Some of the tiny, paper thin flakes to hold onto with only your finger prints break off, so check them before relying on them :).The crux is at the third bolt. Since you'd be clipped in at the bolt line, it makes the move a bit less intimidating. It's listed as "trad", but it's a sport climb...humm
|By C Miller|
Aug 8, 2011
This route is most definitely not a sport climb.
|By Jim Dover|
From: Idyllwild, Ca
Feb 28, 2013
Finally sacked up and led this in December--should have waited for the Winter Solstice but....
I agree with the previous poster--bolts DO NOT equal sport. However, I found the route perfectly protected.
It is possible to get off route near the 4th bolt by venturing too far towards Arcy Farcy. The traverse back in is truly THIN. Not recommended.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2013