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Winter Moon Tower - Waxing and Waning
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British C2+
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 23-24, 2007 |
Page Views: | 848 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Ben Folsom on Nov 26, 2007 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Pitch 1- Great nutting and some small cams up the thin crack lead to a bolt at about 35 feet. More thin clean aid leads past two more bolts to a belay at a small hanging stance. 120 feet C2
Pitch 2- Thin cams and more interesting nutting goes up a left curving crack (passing two bolts) to a steep corner. Climb the corner past two more bolts and a fixed slider nut to a three bolt belay on the great summit. There is a register. 85 feet 5.7 C2+
Pitch 2- Thin cams and more interesting nutting goes up a left curving crack (passing two bolts) to a steep corner. Climb the corner past two more bolts and a fixed slider nut to a three bolt belay on the great summit. There is a register. 85 feet 5.7 C2+
Location
At 0.4 miles from the turnoff into Lucky Strike Mine canyon from the main Reds Canyon Road, find a place to park and walk west into the westernmost fork of the canyon towards the towers which are in view. Follow old ATV tracks in the wash and hike up talus skirting a few small cliff bands to the base of the tower. DPOS is the tower to the left with the wide crack splitting it. Easy fifth class climbing leads to a gully behind the main wall and tower. Scramble up this gully to just below a large chockstone shaped like a guillotine. There is a nice thin crack in a smooth wall leading up the tower from here. The route is not visible from anywhere on the ground. Waxing and Waning begins in the thin crack below the chockstone.
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