Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 23-24, 2007
Page Views: 848 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1- Great nutting and some small cams up the thin crack lead to a bolt at about 35 feet. More thin clean aid leads past two more bolts to a belay at a small hanging stance. 120 feet C2

Pitch 2- Thin cams and more interesting nutting goes up a left curving crack (passing two bolts) to a steep corner. Climb the corner past two more bolts and a fixed slider nut to a three bolt belay on the great summit. There is a register. 85 feet 5.7 C2+

Location Suggest change

At 0.4 miles from the turnoff into Lucky Strike Mine canyon from the main Reds Canyon Road, find a place to park and walk west into the westernmost fork of the canyon towards the towers which are in view. Follow old ATV tracks in the wash and hike up talus skirting a few small cliff bands to the base of the tower. DPOS is the tower to the left with the wide crack splitting it. Easy fifth class climbing leads to a gully behind the main wall and tower. Scramble up this gully to just below a large chockstone shaped like a guillotine. There is a nice thin crack in a smooth wall leading up the tower from here. The route is not visible from anywhere on the ground. Waxing and Waning begins in the thin crack below the chockstone.

Protection Suggest change

A couple sets of stoppers, mostly small to medium sizes. 3-4 sets of cams from 0.1 Camalot size to #0.5 camalot size. 2-3 sets of cams from .75 camalot size to #3. A few bigger cams to #4.5 camalot size.

Photos

loading