Deceptively difficult - a "Sunday drive" with a major roadblock.
Waltz up to stance below roof. Proceed briefly into thin dihedral. Make challenging clip and move left sequentially to arete (crux). Cruise left side of arete to top.
Left side of Puppy Chow area. Left of mega-classic testpiece/arete Mango Tango (5.13d/14a), left of waterfall, past 3 mixed routes. Starts on stairstepped rock below obvious corner dihedral.
5-6 bolts. Anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Jeff making clip before crux traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Collecting thoughts prior to upcoming crux travers...
|By Felix Duvallet|
Jul 16, 2012
A really nice route but definitely sandbagged.
Though it's possible to traverse right under the roof, it's probably easier (and safer) to climb into the dihedral and make a really thin traverse left *after* clipping the bolt on the face.