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Winter climbing destinations?
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By Mike Teschke
From North Vancouver
Oct 30, 2008

I am trying to figure out a few options for a climbing trip in late December/early January. I'm willing to go anywhere in North Amercica. Tips? Suggestions? Hot spots?

Thanks,
Mike


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By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From Tucson, AZ
Oct 30, 2008
Approaching Absinthe of Mallet in the snow.  December 2001.

El Potrero Chico


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Oct 30, 2008

Joshua Tree
Cochise Stronghold

Both are awesome areas. Keep in mind that either area could be basking in sunshine or freezing cold that time of year.


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By Kevin W. Corcoran
Oct 30, 2008

also:

Hueco
Bishop
Red Rocks
Horse Pens


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By Ian F.
From Phx
Oct 30, 2008

James DeRoussel wrote:
El Potrero Chico



2nd that! If you can do it.


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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Nov 1, 2008
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.

Wow, the southerners must've not seen this post yet. Having not been to some of the other places listed, the Tennessee Wall has got to be in the running for best winter crag anywhere. Amazing trad cragging. Winter is prime season for this place.


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By Tim C
From Lakewood, CO
Nov 1, 2008
Grahh! There be a human in my Throne!

Shelf Road


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By Marc Seidenstein
From Jackson, NJ
Nov 12, 2008
The Black Boulder Problem, The Shawangunks

Since this post is in "Sport Climbing" I'll avoid seconding Joshua Tree as a previous poster mentioned (but for God's sake, put down the QD's, buy yourself a rack, and get yourself to J-Tree this winter. Its amazing.) I will however give a second recommendation on Red Rocks. Tons of sport routes, beautiful scenery, decent bouldering, and killer trad if that's your thing.


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By Tradster
From Phoenix, AZ
Nov 12, 2008

Queen Creek AZ. Thousands of sport routes, and usually nice weather in winter. Get there before the copper barons close it off completely.


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By eric larson
From aurora, co
Nov 12, 2008
suspender man

3rd'ing El potrero... was there Xmas to mid jan last year.. 60-80 deg every day... insane amount of bolts there... beautiful 10+ pitch 5.10's, awesome 11's, and 12s (though not much stuff >12 if that's your thing), tons of great, varied-style climbing from overhangs to slab.. not to mention the food, parties and culture.... local markets tuesdays and fridays (perfect for rest days!).. could eat for like 15 bucks a week if you cooked!

most busy time youll see is the week between Xmas and new years.. so def make camping reservations... highly recommend spending more than a week due to the gigantic nature of the place.

Happy to give any beta on getting there, lodging, etc!


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By Adam Baxter
From Estes Park, CO
Nov 12, 2008

4thing the Potrero. Was also there the same time as Eric (Did we hang out at all?). Kind of a madhouse until late January, then folks started ushering back to there lives elsewhere. Check out El Salto (youll hear about it while in Potrero no doubt). I hear El Gigante is pretty rad in the Baja. Goto the American Alpine Journal site and do a quick search on Mexico to find some good articles.

T Wall is awesome too, but not as massive as Potrero. Only single pitch stuff really. Good luck.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Nov 12, 2008

Marc Seidenstein wrote:
Since this post is in "Sport Climbing" I'll avoid seconding Joshua Tree as a previous poster mentioned (but for God's sake, put down the QD's, buy yourself a rack, and get yourself to J-Tree this winter. Its amazing.) I will however give a second recommendation on Red Rocks. Tons of sport routes, beautiful scenery, decent bouldering, and killer trad if that's your thing.


Oops. Didn't see the source of the thread. Marc's right. While there is a JT sport guide, it's small because the place is really a trad venue. Cochise is equally so.


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By Mike Teschke
From North Vancouver
Nov 12, 2008

Thanks a lot, great response from the community on here. I am still undecided, but knowing that Joshua Tree is more of a trad destination helps a lot. I was originally considering that as my #1 choice. Guess i'll have to wait until next year when I'll have a rack :) Until then i suppose El Potrero or Red Rocks are great options...
Feel free to keep up the suggestions and tips I'm sure I'm not the only one who could use some more recommendations on winter climbing spots.


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Nov 12, 2008
Me and Spearhead

I don't know if you'll be driving or what the transportation situation is but if you wanted to you can always head to the southwest desert and just go wherever the weather is best. J-Tree and Vegas are only about 5 hrs drive time apart and there's a lot of little local spots out that way.
If you wanted some bouldering and the winter isn't too intense I've had some good days right around new years in the happy's and the buttermilks. Bishop is a beautiful place to spend some time and is an easy half day drive from vegas. But if you're after the sport climbing, I'd say go w/ Potrero or the Vegas area.
I hope that the weather is good for the road trip. Cheers, BA


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By J C Wilks
From Loveland, CO
Nov 12, 2008

5th on Potrero. Climb with the lizards.

If you don't want the hassle of driving across the border, I hear Continental Ranch is relatively untapped. Wha...? Where? It's on the confluence of the Rio Grande and Pecos Rivers.

www.pecosriverrockclimbing.com/climbing.html#topos

www.rock-about.com/packages.htm

Load yer six shooter with bolts.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 12, 2008
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

If you are road tripping it, Continental Ranch is a worthy stop. But Potrero is the better destination for out of state people.


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By jack roberts
Nov 13, 2008

Canada........Quebec is really nice in the winter.
Newfoundland is even better.........


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By oriol
From Osséja
Sep 27, 2013

Mexico is a great rock climbing destination during winter season. All around the country there are plenty of excellent sport and trad crags as well as fabulous bouldering and multipitch routes all around. Check this web page to see whats going on there www.rockclimbing-mexico.com . 2 guide books available
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By MikeSLC
Sep 27, 2013

Regarding El Potrero, consider this:

1)The local police force was disbanded.
2)US Department of State recommendation is to defer non-essential travel to Nuevo Leon.
3)Americans have been victims of the violence.


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By freeope
From Vancouver Island
Oct 7, 2013

MikeSLC wrote:
Regarding El Potrero, consider this: 1)The local police force was disbanded. 2)US Department of State recommendation is to defer non-essential travel to Nuevo Leon. 3)Americans have been victims of the violence.


Regarding EPC consider this:

1) There is inherent risk in living.
2) NTARC (?)
3) climber shot @ Ten sleep!

ps. Never have there been any issues regarding climbers at EPC.

Ope.


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By Blake Cash
Oct 7, 2013

The SE.


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By MikeSLC
Nov 3, 2013

freeope wrote:
Regarding EPC consider this: 1) There is inherent risk in living. 2) NTARC (?) 3) climber shot @ Ten sleep! ps. Never have there been any issues regarding climbers at EPC. Ope.


I would only suggest people read the travel warnings before making up their mind. Ask yourself:

- Are the risks higher compared to other winter climbing destinations? If so, how much and what is your tolerance?
- Do you think an isolated incident in Wyoming is really an appropriate comparison?
- Is the probability of becoming a victim as a climber different than other Americans visiting Mexico? Could it be higher given the location?


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 6, 2013
Andrew Gram

MikeSLC wrote:
Are the risks higher compared to other winter climbing destinations? If so, how much and what is your tolerance?


If you survive driving there, you have survived the riskiest part of the trip. The drug violence in Mexico is bad, but it is pretty much limited to people involved in either fighting or continuing the drug trade. The risk of being a victim of random violence is vanishingly small - up there with going to movie theaters or elementary schools in the USA.

MikeSLC wrote:
Do you think an isolated incident in Wyoming is really an appropriate comparison?


Yup.

MikeSLC wrote:
Is the probability of becoming a victim as a climber different than other Americans visiting Mexico? Could it be higher given the location?


Weird question. Probably not? I imagine it is less than Americans going to Mexico to procure drugs to use or sell, and less than American DEA/FBI types trying to stop the drug trade. Less than frat boys going whoring in Laredo or Tijuana. Less than surfers crashing on a beach in northern Baja. Higher than retirees snowbirding in Puerto Vallarta. Higher than families with timeshares in Cancun. Higher than sportfishers going for Marlin in Ixtapa. Mexico is really big and diverse, and isn't the dystopian hellscape the media wants you to think it is.


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By Sam Keller
Dec 5, 2013
Finger cracking in Indian Creek!

I was in El Potrero January of 2012. Great place to climb in winter, awesome routes, and safe for climbers. Amazing multipitch! You must try it!


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