Mountain Project Logo

Winter Climbing

Original Post
Harrison Harb · · Portland · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 145

This is going to be my first time climbing through the winter and I'm just wondering at what point does the cold begin to diminish your fun while on the rock?

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

It's all about your individual tolerance for cold. I can boulder pretty happily in temps down to the high 20s with enough food, clothing, and hot tea (helps if it's not windy). I wouldn't climb on a rope in anything below 40 unless I was in full sun, though. And I know folks who won't go out climbing at all if it's below about 40.

tenpins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 30

there's this thing about how much the wind increases as you leave ground level. Working in a boom lift only 10 feet off the ground can be a tortuous freeze fest, while the guys on the ground are comfy.

Darby S · · Snoqualmie, wa · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

My hands get super cold at first but then once the blood gets pumping they warm up a little near the top of routes. I wear fingerless wool gloves when climbing in cold temps and then shed them at the crux or once my hands warm up. You can climb more than you'd think with the right fingerless gloves.

Valerie A B · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 37

Everyone is different. I'm headed to the Gunks tomorrow (predicted high 38), my boyfriend (usual partner) is staying home. I'm quite cold-hardy, he had problems when his hands touch cold rock.

Attitude is important too. Cold does not neccessarily = miserable

As it gets colder I just keep adding more clothes. Eventually I add boots, crampons, and axes....and then I'm ice climbing.

Chris Naugle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 70

If the rock is dry I don't care how cold it gets. Take your dog and cuddle.

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215

It's more about belayer misery. A sleeping bag goes great lengths when belaying cold single pitch cragging.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Winter is the time for bouldering. It allows you to pack a lot into the short days, and it is also better suited for the cold temps. You don't need to touch cold rock for that long, and the cold helps you stick to little holds.

Or, since you are in New Hampshire, isn't it ice season now?

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
Jon Moen wrote:Winter is the time for bouldering. It allows you to pack a lot into the short days, and it is also better suited for the cold temps. You don't need to touch cold rock for that long, and the cold helps you stick to little holds. Or, since you are in New Hampshire, isn't it ice season now?
I always figured winter was for easy/moderate trad and aid (when ice isn't available). Sub-zero rock is awful cold without gloves.
Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
Harrison Harb wrote:This is going to be my first time climbing through the winter and I'm just wondering at what point does the cold begin to diminish your fun while on the rock?
Harold,

I started climbing in the late fall of 2008, and therefore was hooked come winter. I found a partner who climbed several times a week regardless of the weather. If you love climbing, there's absolutley no reason not to stay busy climbing through the winter!

A few things that make life more enjoyable:
SUN = FUN
Bring a thermos of hot soup (tomato w/ cheyanne) or tea (Mate)
Throw a chemical hand warmer in your chalk bag
Bring a tarp to gear up and belay on (keeps the snow off your shoes and gear)
To echo above: Attitude is everything!


Have fun!
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Dobson wrote: I always figured winter was for easy/moderate trad and aid (when ice isn't available). Sub-zero rock is awful cold without gloves.
I guess it depends on how cold of a winter we are talking about. If "winter" means 35-45 Fahrenheit and dry/sunny (like in California), then bouldering is nice. If "winter" means 10-15 Fahrenheit and snowing (like in Monatana or northern New England), then you better keep your gloves on.

When I lived in Vermont, I had a name for the couple of weeks in Nov/Dec when it was too cold and grey and damp to climb on rock, but proper winter conditions for ice climbing and skiing weren't happening yet. I called it "whiskey season" since it was the sad gap between rock season and ice season, where all you to do was to sit around and swill the whiskey.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

on a cold winter day the East Peak Ampitheater area where Dul Goldar (sp?) is can heat up to 60 degs on a day in the 30's if there is a little to no breeze and a blue bird day...

That's one of Ken Nichols's spots/secrets.

Harrison Harb · · Portland · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 145

thanks for all the feedback...I went out the other day in 32 degrees with sun. Seems like so long as the sun is on the rock it's no problem. It must be at least 10 degrees warmer on the sunny parts.

JChepes · · West Ossipee, NH · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 7,390

Harris check out lynn woods for some nice "sun" blocks and
also cape ann has a few good ones, agassiz for example can
be quite pleasant.
Your best bet is pray for the cold and snow cause it's time
to ride and swing those picks!

Dom Caron · · Welsford, New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,370

If you're smart about it, you can climb in the winter in New-England no problem. I live in New Brunswick Canada and we have the same weather as New England. I rope climbed every month in 2011. It was -8C (18F) in the picture.

A few considerations. Some have been mentioned before but redundancy is good:

Sun heats up the rock. Stay away from the shade
No wind is crucial
2 heat pads in the chalk bag.
Trad climbing is cold- think of all that cold metal. stick to sport or really cold days, stick to TR.
- Stay away from cracks, they see very little sun.
- Jugs do the same to a lesser extent.
- Aim for vertical crimpy faces or slabs. They'll bake in the sun.
- Belay with a huge down jacket.
- Wear a toque.
-When you belay wear gloves.

So to answer the OP's question, If you have those conditions, you should be good to at least 25F if you're motivated.

Have fun!

Having a go at RA in February.

ZachDKing · · Aspen, CO · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 15

If you ever make it up to Rumney maincliff is like a sunbowl until about 2 pm and stays really dry, I have really bad circulation, but I've been going out pretty often the past two weeks. My strategy may seem weird, but I really like to dead hang on a jug for as long as I can and just tryn give myself the barfies, that usually gets the circulation ball rolling for my hands, like everyone else said though the rest is all about puffies, tea, warm gloves, and if your on a meat eating plan, lots of bacon in the morning. also bringing a jumprope is always a good back up if you start to get really cold.

Harrison Harb · · Portland · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 145

yeah i was at main cliff yesterday...climbing in a t-shirt and elsewhere it was 35 degrees

Jake D. · · Northeast · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 365

do something easy to start out. get your hands really frozen. then warm them up. once your hands "know" that it's going to be really cold your body reacts and sends more blood there to keep them warm. i've bouldered all day in the low 30's and not needed gloves between problems. last 2 days at the gunks. mid 40's long sleeve heavy poly pro and a fleece vest was perfect

getting acclimated to the cold helps too.. just doing things outside and not just sitting in a warm house all the time helps.

yaarh year · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

I always layer up with one or two pairs of long underwear. Keeps me warm and does not hamper movement so much.

Wear more than you think you need at belays.

Try easy trad with gloves and boots. Fumbling with small cams with numb or gloved hands is good practice for those epic FAs on Himalayan big walls!

Peter Jackson · · Rumney, NH · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 445

The cold starts to diminish your fun as soon as you let it. Alpine training! I find that the cold is the most difficult before I've left the house. :) Once underway to the crags, it doesn't seem to matter.

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

I'll echo what AntinJ said, and add that fingerless mitts and a windproof hat are huge helps. So is an extra pair of wool socks in case your first pair get wet in snow, hopefully on the approach and descent.
Recreational eating helps: nibble constantly to stoke your furnace.
We climbed Boulder's Flatirons all through the winter because we could move fast and stay warm.
40 and sunny is fine; 50 and shade is marginal at best.
Have fun!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
Post a Reply to "Winter Climbing "

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.