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|Comments on Winona, Sugar Loaf||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 24, 2012
|who has more information about this place? how many routes are there?|
Nov 26, 2012
There are 5 sets of bolted anchors and 2 lead routes (3 if you decide to link up from right to left). Routes range from 5.4-5.9 depending how you choose to climb them. The climbing here is not the best quality if you are an experienced climber looking to sport climb. Nonetheless if you are new to climbing and looking to experience top rope climbing outside this is a great destination, and the view is spectacular.
The 3 left most anchors can be easily free soloed (5.4ish) by an experienced climber to set TRs. The right 2 anchors can be lead or you can scramble up the backside (fith class)to set TRs.
The Winona State University Outdoor Education & Recreation Center makes regular use of the sugar loaf during the school year.
By Todd Johnson
Oct 25, 2013
|I used to climb here 25 years ago. I put some of the bolts at the top for anchors. Before I climbed there there were some very old 1/4 inch bolts I heard the ROTC put in for directional anchors. There used to be an anchor spike in the top of the rock. Most of the rock is very poor quality but the corner had some short fun routes. We did put 3 routes on what we called the front face. They were very intense. We used to identify around 10 routes on the back corner. They were mostly variations of lines. The hardest lines were highball boulder problems.|
By Jay Harrison
Oct 27, 2014
My wife and I, still wet behind our ears in 1983, saw this formation and thought we were getting close to Devil's Tower! After assuring ourselves that Minnesota was a bit too wide for that, we took every turn leading toward the tower in sight, finally making it to Winona.
I recall soloing some peculiar, 3' deep, but only 6" thick, megashelves on the way up to the promontory. My wife chose a more sensible path. At the base of the tower, two guys were installing the lights that have since highlighted the formation. I think it was for the town's centennial celebration, but I'm not sure. It was close to 4th of July as well, so it may have been that. It was my first paid climbing gig: they wanted to head down for lunch and paid us to "hang out" and keep an eye on the equipment.
I climbed up an easy line and then TR'd a harder one (~5.7). The guys returned and we headed down to look for a place to camp. Found a little ice cream shack that made the best malted milkshakes we've ever had.
While we cont'd on our journey and had many amazing times out West, I still remember this tower and the little town below as equally enjoyable and amazing.