This route ascends a thin overhanging and left-leaning dihedral up and left of the start of "Left Wing."
Go up the gully as for ""Left Wing," but continue up for about 25 feet more. Place some gear and get your belayer secured in the corner before starting, as a fall getting into the dihedral (hard) could otherwise send you both for a ride. Start climbing up and to the right to enter the dihedral above the overhanging section. Place thin gear as you then ascend the dihedral on some 5.10 moves past gear from "tiny" to 1.5-inch. Finish from the top of the big flake, as for "Left Wing.
This pitch is definitely easier than the like-graded ""Left Wing," but you should be solid at the grade or you will get pumped trying to place gear.
A standard rack with extra small gear. The route is difficult to protect well, but can take gear. RPs and ballnuts could be placed from strenuous stances to more or less sew it up. Still, do not be at your limit here.
You can TR this pitch from the top of ""Left Wing."
|By Sergio P|
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Nov 1, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
It is short and sustained. Not worth going out of your way for, but if you are craging around elephant butterss it worth doing. You can protect it with small cams and small nuts.
Aug 5, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
This is a fun route with good liebacking. It is a bit thin off the start but a #6 BD and a blue TCU will keep you from having a bad day. Aside from that, I would take gear to green Camalot possible a red Camalot, but I didn't use it.
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
Every bit of PG-13 on this one. You have to commit to the route before you get gear, and even then you have to fight to get really good gear for it.
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2012
Climbed this today and did not have a #6 BD like Tommy recommended. It would have been nice to have right off the deck!