Wingtip  5.10c PG13

921 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Chip Chace and Steve Levin, 1979 Season:  Faces W/SW Submitted By:  Tony B on May 31, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Closed due to rockfall MORE INFO >>> Per Andy Hansen: As of recently the 3rd Buttress on Elephant Buttress is closed until further notice due to rockfall in the area. There are signs posted along the trail warning of a $1,000 fine or a 90-day jail sentence as penalty for trespassing. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route ascends a thin overhanging and left-leaning dihedral up and left of the start of "Left Wing."

Go up the gully as for ""Left Wing," but continue up for about 25 feet more. Place some gear and get your belayer secured in the corner before starting, as a fall getting into the dihedral (hard) could otherwise send you both for a ride. Start climbing up and to the right to enter the dihedral above the overhanging section. Place thin gear as you then ascend the dihedral on some 5.10 moves past gear from "tiny" to 1.5-inch. Finish from the top of the big flake, as for "Left Wing.

This pitch is definitely easier than the like-graded ""Left Wing," but you should be solid at the grade or you will get pumped trying to place gear.

Protection 

A standard rack with extra small gear. The route is difficult to protect well, but can take gear. RPs and ballnuts could be placed from strenuous stances to more or less sew it up. Still, do not be at your limit here.

You can TR this pitch from the top of ""Left Wing."