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Routes in Buzzards Roof
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Bangin' Buzzards S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bound to Divide S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Falcon Punch TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fiscal Cliff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right in Two S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tradical buzzards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wingspan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Clint Walker |
| Page Views: | 801 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Clint Walker ATX on Jul 5, 2014 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
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Description
Technical beta mixed with a hint of height dependency (please prove me wrong on this) make for a fun romp up this short wall. Route goes up the center of the wall pulling the roof on protruding rock along the lip. Wingspan starts with a scramble up to the base of the triangle-shaped boulder. Play with the roof a bit and try not to think about the boulder underneath you. Burly moves get you past the lip and a thin finish on the mini-wave earns the anchors. Don't z-clip the 2nd bolt.
Belayer should stand down and to the right just under bolt 1 to minimize rope issues at the start.
R rating due to possible bad landing on boulder. Have a good belayer and a cool head @ bolt 4 and you'll be fine. Do not toprope this route. A bad fall onto the pointed boulder below can (did) happen.
During development while working the roof section my right hand popped out of the slot causing me to take a grounder onto the slanted boulder below. I struck at just the right angle as to not incur any injuries but I wouldn't say by any means that the feat is repeatable. DON'T TOP ROPE THIS ROUTE.
Belayer should stand down and to the right just under bolt 1 to minimize rope issues at the start.
R rating due to possible bad landing on boulder. Have a good belayer and a cool head @ bolt 4 and you'll be fine. Do not toprope this route. A bad fall onto the pointed boulder below can (did) happen.
During development while working the roof section my right hand popped out of the slot causing me to take a grounder onto the slanted boulder below. I struck at just the right angle as to not incur any injuries but I wouldn't say by any means that the feat is repeatable. DON'T TOP ROPE THIS ROUTE.
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