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Wings of Wallenda T 

Wings of Wallenda 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg
Season: Not Summer
Page Views: 941
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 14, 2010

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SF aiding the A3 roof on Wings of Wallenda with DW...

Description 

This is essentially a linkup of the first pitch of Primitive Paradox and the crux pitch of Punk Wave via a crack and a bit of face climbing.

After the inital corner, continue straight up aiming for the finger crack up high.

A long, plumb line.

Location 

Start same as for Primitive Paradox.

Protection 

Lots...long pitch.


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By Stephen F
From: GA/CO
Nov 15, 2010

Paul, just to clarify, I am pretty sure that the Wings of Wallenda nailing pitch is a seperate aid line, just right of Wally's proper (yes, same roof system). There is a weakness leading to a V at the lip that looks like it would take knifeblades, which I have eyed but never ventured up. However, I am not certain of this. Maybe Shannon could clarify.
By Stephen F
From: GA/CO
Nov 15, 2010

...agreed, the ~50m mega-pitch up to the roof is a good link up with some unique terrain. "Plumb line" about sums it up. I'd proceed with caution in the center when pulling the smeary crux above the Primitive Paradox ledge- good pro, just a little close, ya know?
By Stephen F
From: GA/CO
Apr 18, 2011

Okay, I've now done Wally's and Wings of Wallenda roofs. Wally's goes clean and has a ton of rusty fixed gear; approach via Primitve Paradox. Wings of Wallenda requires thin and sustained nailing and is approached via the link up or P2 of Punk Wave; are you prepared to climb out of the aiders and mantle above knife blades on a slopey, dirty ledge nearly 240 meters above the gorge floor?
By shannon stegg
Mar 24, 2013

I did, it is the crux!