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Wings of Wallenda 

Wings of Wallenda 

5.10

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg
Season: Not Summer
Submitted By: Paul Barnes on Nov 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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SF aiding the A3 roof on Wings of Wallenda with DW...

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Description 

This is essentially a linkup of the first pitch of Primitive Paradox and the crux pitch of Punk Wave via a crack and a bit of face climbing.

After the inital corner, continue straight up aiming for the finger crack up high.

A long, plumb line.


Location 

Start same as for Primitive Paradox.


Protection 

Lots...long pitch.



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By Paul Barnes
From: Gainesville, Georgia
Nov 14, 2010

This route also has an A3 second pitch out Wally's Roof via some nailing...and a third that takes it to the top.

By s f
From: Georgia
Nov 15, 2010

Paul, just to clarify, I am pretty sure that the Wings of Wallenda nailing pitch is a seperate aid line, just right of Wally's proper (yes, same roof system). There is a weakness leading to a V at the lip that looks like it would take knifeblades, which I have eyed but never ventured up. However, I am not certain of this. Maybe Shannon could clarify.

By Paul Barnes
From: Gainesville, Georgia
Nov 15, 2010

I think you are correct. "Wally's Roof" is a specific route name whereas I mistakenly refer to that whole bigass roof as Wally's roof.

I mainly posted this because just the first pitch alone is a full value route in and of itself. I'm surprised it doesn't get done this way more often, especially since you rap right over it if you bail after the crux pitch of Punk Wave as many do.

By s f
From: Georgia
Nov 15, 2010

...agreed, the ~50m mega-pitch up to the roof is a good link up with some unique terrain. "Plumb line" about sums it up. I'd proceed with caution in the center when pulling the smeary crux above the Primitive Paradox ledge- good pro, just a little close, ya know?

By Paul Barnes
From: Gainesville, Georgia
Nov 16, 2010

Precisely. Well thought out pro and situational awareness required above the ledge for sure.

By s f
From: Georgia
Apr 18, 2011

Okay, I've now done Wally's and Wings of Wallenda roofs. Wally's goes clean and has a ton of rusty fixed gear; approach via Primitve Paradox. Wings of Wallenda requires thin and sustained nailing and is approached via the link up or P2 of Punk Wave; are you prepared to climb out of the aiders and mantle above knife blades on a slopey, dirty ledge nearly 240 meters above the gorge floor?

By shannon stegg
Mar 24, 2013

I did, it is the crux!