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 ADVANCED
Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face
Select Route:
Devil's Plaything, The T 
Gates Of Hell T 
Wind Beneath the Devil's Wings T 
Wings Of Steel T 

Wings Of Steel 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Jerry Bargo, 10/6/07.
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn, when not closed or snowed in
Page Views: 479
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 7, 2007

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  • Description 

    A great track from the Collide album, 'Chasing The Ghost.'

    Start up a shallow, left-facing corner by stepping up and placing great medium stopper or cam, and an equally great fingerlock, then pull into the corner. Within a meter, the system is given to stiff laybacks with high feet and sections of jamming. After perhaps 60', the corner which has been hitherto characterized by laybacks is replaced by a system of equally well-protected flakes and cracks. Climb these to near a summit at about 100' up, then place a good directional and traverse hard right along flakes and ledges to reach the rap tree as for 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings' and belay/rap.
    This is the best single pitch route on the West Face of the Devil's Wings.

    Location 

    Toward the upper end of the West Face (north), a shallow and distinctly yellow, right-facing corner starts at the ground with a slight overhang and a large hollow flake on the left side. This is perhaps 100' to 150' North of 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings'.

    Protection 

    Gear from medium stoppers to 3" cams. While a 4" piece can be placed, but just a bit deeper in the same place, other gear can be had. So forgo the heavy stuff.


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