|Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face
Wings Of Steel
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Jerry Bargo, 10/6/07.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||455|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 7, 2007|
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A great track from the Collide album, 'Chasing The Ghost.'
Start up a shallow, left-facing corner by stepping up and placing great medium stopper or cam, and an equally great fingerlock, then pull into the corner. Within a meter, the system is given to stiff laybacks with high feet and sections of jamming. After perhaps 60', the corner which has been hitherto characterized by laybacks is replaced by a system of equally well-protected flakes and cracks. Climb these to near a summit at about 100' up, then place a good directional and traverse hard right along flakes and ledges to reach the rap tree as for 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings' and belay/rap.
This is the best single pitch route on the West Face of the Devil's Wings.
Toward the upper end of the West Face (north), a shallow and distinctly yellow, right-facing corner starts at the ground with a slight overhang and a large hollow flake on the left side. This is perhaps 100' to 150' North of 'Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings'.
Gear from medium stoppers to 3" cams. While a 4" piece can be placed, but just a bit deeper in the same place, other gear can be had. So forgo the heavy stuff.