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Wings of Leather
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C0 PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 6
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Routes in The Warlock
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Dinosaurs with Guns T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Wings of Leather T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Matt Pickren, Sam Lightner, and Brad Brandewie |
| Page Views: | 2,597 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Brandewie on Jul 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Permits are now required for climbing in Hell Roaring and Mineral Canyons. See section below for details.
Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route follows the dihedral system on the sw corner of the tower. A strong party could easily get the first free ascent.
Pitch One - Climb up and across a huge fallen block to the base of an obvious chimney formed by another huge block and the tower. Continue up the chimney to a large belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. There is little to no protection on this pitch but it is fairly easy. 5.8 PG13
Pitch Two. This is a long pitch. Climb the sandy crack in the corner up and through a bombay chimney passing a bolt. Above the roof, the angle eases and the crack gets wide. Belay at the ledge on the corner of the tower. 5.11, C0
Pitch Three - This pitch is shared with the original Olevsky route. Climb cracks up the outside corner of the main tower, traverse left across a ledge and continue up a short crack to a low angle face that takes you to the top.
Pitch One - Climb up and across a huge fallen block to the base of an obvious chimney formed by another huge block and the tower. Continue up the chimney to a large belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. There is little to no protection on this pitch but it is fairly easy. 5.8 PG13
Pitch Two. This is a long pitch. Climb the sandy crack in the corner up and through a bombay chimney passing a bolt. Above the roof, the angle eases and the crack gets wide. Belay at the ledge on the corner of the tower. 5.11, C0
Pitch Three - This pitch is shared with the original Olevsky route. Climb cracks up the outside corner of the main tower, traverse left across a ledge and continue up a short crack to a low angle face that takes you to the top.
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