Wings of Glory  5.12

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Type:  Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  RMWright, Fall 2012 New Route:  Yes Season:  Typical of Empire Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Oct 4, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Wings of Glory climbs on brilliant stone for two pitches. The moniker comes from a close encounter with the resident Golden Eagle that looked as big as a boxcar when he buzzed us near the top of King of the Mountain.

P1: 5.12, 90 feet, quickdraws only. Begin below the immaculate corner, and climb up through the dihedral to a perplexing block and hard layaway crux. Originally I was going to call the route Cubik's Rube for my persistent inability to solve this "cube" crux. This pitch becomes progressively more difficult until just below the anchor. It is excellent but hard.

P2: 5.11b/c, 60 feet, quickdraws only. Climb delicately past the large, scary looking block to a tricky, crimp crux. Finish on the bullet hard slab above. The climbing is continuous and needs some time and effort to locate the excellent holds that actually make up the climbing.

Location 

Wings of Glory is route "A" in the area photo, the left of two routes.

Protection 

13 quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchors at the top of P1 and P2. Two raps to the ledge at the Eyrie Sector. The base belay is cams only, no base bolts.