Wingless Victory  5.13a/b R

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.13a/b [details] FA:  Christian Griffith, Mark Sonnenfeld, '89 Fixed Hardware:  5 Lead Bolts [details] Submitted By:  Hank the Tank on Feb 13, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Taylor Roy on Wingless Victory. Photo by Justen S...

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Consistent exposure characterizes this 60' pitch. Expect small hands and feet while dry humping the arete the whole way. Crux comes at the 5th bolt when you bust a hard right and layback like your life depended on it to the anchors (a fall between the 5th bolt and the anchors would be very ugly) (this section is not toprope friendly). A link up of this and "Sickness Unto Death" would be AMAZING!

Location 

You can rap down from the top of the Naked Edge, or better yet, climb the 1st 3 pitches for a warmup. Regardless, you will start from the sloping ramp belay at the top of the 3rd pitch of the Naked Edge. Hanging a rope at the top, rapping down and then Jumaring back up is not bad. Your choice. Adventure guaranteed.

Protection 

5 bolts go straight up the arete, the anchors share the top of the 4th pitch of the Naked Edge.

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Taylor Roy on WIngless Victory. Photo by Justen S...

Taylor Roy on WIngless Victory. Photo by Justen S...