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Wingless Victory 

Wingless Victory 

YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c R

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Christian Griffith, Mark Sonnenfeld, '89
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,983
Submitted By: Hank Caylor on Feb 13, 2009
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Taylor Roy on WIngless Victory. Photo by Justen S...

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  • Description 

    Consistent exposure characterizes this 60' pitch. Expect small hands and feet while dry humping the arete the whole way. Crux comes at the 5th bolt when you bust a hard right and layback like your life depended on it to the anchors (a fall between the 5th bolt and the anchors would be very ugly) (this section is not toprope friendly). A link up of this and "Sickness Unto Death" would be AMAZING!


    Location 

    You can rap down from the top of the Naked Edge, or better yet, climb the 1st 3 pitches for a warmup. Regardless, you will start from the sloping ramp belay at the top of the 3rd pitch of the Naked Edge. Hanging a rope at the top, rapping down and then Jumaring back up is not bad. Your choice. Adventure guaranteed.


    Protection 

    5 bolts go straight up the arete, the anchors share the top of the 4th pitch of the Naked Edge.



    Photos of Wingless Victory Slideshow Add Photo
    Taylor Roy on Wingless Victory.  Photo by Justen Sjong.
    Taylor Roy on Wingless Victory. Photo by Justen S...
    Taylor Roy on WIngless Victory.  Photo by Justen Sjong.
    Taylor Roy on WIngless Victory. Photo by Justen S...
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