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Wine Style 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: Rough on Jan 31, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Floyd Hayes leading Wine Style. Photo by Cheri Erm...

Description 

Start up the steepest portion of the wall at a large pocket. Bouldery moves right off the bat using a crack and knob out left and intermediate crimps to gain the 3 large huecos which are not as good as they would appear. Larger jugs continue from here to the lip and an easy slab finish. A wee bit sharp down low.

Location 

Left portion of the SW face. Furthest route to the left on the main wall.

Protection 

6 bolts - Second bolt is hard to clip but necessary to keep you off the slab at the bottom.


Photos of Wine Style Slideshow Add Photo
Undercling for feet up.
Undercling for feet up.
Great moves off the deck.
Great moves off the deck.

Comments on Wine Style Add Comment
Show which comments
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Most of the holds I used were left of the first four bolts.
By Floyd Hayes
Jan 24, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If leading, be careful and make sure your belayer doesn't allow much slack in your line. Falling while trying unsuccessfully to clip the 2nd or 3rd bolt could be disastrous.
By Rough
Jan 24, 2012

Agreed Floyd. That's why I put the disclaimer in the protection description. The angle of that slab at the bottom made the bolting problematic. I thought about putting in a high 1st bolt followed by a shorter spaced 2nd, but that would require either people to have a stick clip or to "solo" the start which of course is where the crux is as well as the worst rock as well as a nasty fall and tumble off the ledge into the scrub oak. It was really one of those "can't win" scenarios. However, as you mention, with a attentive belayer, I feel that it would be pretty hard to hit the deck given the current bolting unless you pull out extra slack and blow it at the worst possible time.
By Floyd Hayes
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Somehow I flashed it as an onsight lead, but fell and couldn't finish during two subsequent attempts at leading. On the latter occasion I was at the third bolt when I very nearly cratered, as can be seen in this video: youtu.be/ddXWML7BQAs
By Bernard Van De Walle
May 13, 2013

As of sunday 12 may 2013, the first bolt is missing.

In the meantime I would advise to stick clip the second bolt or to do one of the routes around in order to preclip the second and third bolt.
By Rough
May 13, 2013

Bernard: I can guarantee it didn't snap out on someone. Those were 1/2" x 4.75" Rawl 5 Pieces and you can unscrew them leaving the hole. Someone PM'd me the other day saying that it looked like they did the same thing to Table Scraps. 1st bolt only etc.. Your recommendation of stick clipping the 2nd (now first) is exactly why those two "1st bolts" were there. So it wouldn't necessitate a stick clip. Given the cruxes, and generally crappier rock, coming right off the ground at Scraps, the idea was to allow for easy 1st clips. But of course, some ahole decided to be a thief rather than just appreciate what was there. Not directed at you Bernard, thanks for the heads up.
By Bernard Van De Walle
May 13, 2013

Hi Rough, Sorry for my bad assessment, I can indeed confirm that those were not snapped out as the hole was clearly visible, meaning that they were unscrewed (snapped out would probably take out the whole block around the bolt).

Rough, Fully agree, it is indeed very unfortunate to see that some people are stealing bolts like that, very disrepectful for your hard work on those cliffs.
For what it is worth we were all super impressed by the quality of the bolting yesterday, thanks for equiping all this!
By Ming
Nov 22, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Don't want to spoil it for people but it climbs easier than it looks. Too bad the fog rolled in so it was cold and damp when I tried the onsight. If you are a gym climber in the 10d/11a range you can comfortably lead through the crux of this one.