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Wine Bottle Area
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Butterfly Springs 
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Wine Bottle Cliff 

Wine Bottle Area 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on May 14, 2010

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Thunderstorm
91° | 75°
Chance of Rain
93° | 73°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
95° | 73°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
99° | 75°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
93° | 75°
Access Issues MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO: The Winebottle Area as seen from the Golden Cat Ca...

Description 

Ground zero of the climbing scene in YangShuo. The area is close to town, accessible by public transport or bike, and has several walls of various facing direction that are all close to the road. What more can you ask for in sport climbing? Yes, there’s food, beverage and restrooms as well (at Butterfly Springs).


Getting There 

It’s a short bike ride to the Wine Bottle area, but you may want to take the bus the first time if you don’t know how to get there.

From the bus station, take the Moon Hill bus. Once out of town cruise through the countryside for about 5 minutes until you see a rock on your right with a giant, gaudy butterfly attached to the side. The bus doesn’t stop unless signaled but chances are someone else on the bus is getting off here. At the end of the day just flag down the bus to get back.

There’s a visitor’s center under the butterfly where you can use a restroom, and there should be bunches of vendors trying to get you to buy food, drinks, and kitsch. There are ongoing access issues in this popular area as the locals feel you shouldn’t be able to climb without paying (them) a fee. The local climbers advocate buying food here when climbing to help placate the natives.


Narcissists Rejoice! 

The Wine Bottle Area is the first tourist stop on the bus, so expect hordes of tourists; if you’ve never seen Chinese tourism, expect to be amazed. Many of the walls are not more than a few feet off the road so it’s common to look down and see a hundred lenses and fingers pointing at you. That’s not an exaggeration, there are 1.2 billion people in this country, a hundred people isn’t even enough to make a quorum in China. Don’t be surprised to see lines of cars backed-up because crowds stop in the middle of the street to take pictures of people climbing.

Usual day of climbing in the Wine Bottle Area.
Usual day of climbing in the Wine Bottle Area.
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on May 14, 2010


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wine Bottle Area:
Chairman Mao   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Swiss Cheese Wall
Two Faced   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Swiss Cheese Wall
Spam the Chinese Ham   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Swiss Cheese Wall
Philly Cheese Steak   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Swiss Cheese Wall
The Miracle of Lankou   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Wine Bottle Cliff : Main Face
Shu Ba Jie   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Wine Bottle Cliff : Main Face
Lomito Complito   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Swiss Cheese Wall
Captain Kirk Eats Bruchetta   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Swiss Cheese Wall
Happy New Year   5.10b     Sport, 5 pitches, 300 feet   The Thumb
Name? (Tuffa Seat)   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Wine Bottle Cliff : Main Face
Paparazzi Pete   5.10b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300 feet   The Thumb
Slack   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Wine Bottle Cliff : Main Face
Roof Route   5.11-     TR, 60 feet   Golden Cat Cave
Happy Ending   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Wine Bottle Cliff : Main Face
Browse More Classics in Wine Bottle Area

Featured Route For Wine Bottle Area
Anja headed up the climb I call tuffa seat Yangshuo

Name? (Tuffa Seat) 5.10b  International : Asia : ... : Main Face
A superb route and my favorite on the face. Climb up directly below the large flow stone formation. Pull a few fairly committing moves above the 4th bolt on a flow stone rib until you and lean back against the flow stone like a chimney then move out right and between the two flow stone formations.The guidebook has no name so I'm calling it tuffa seat....[more]   Browse More Classics in International