2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 18, 2008 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+20E3 5b
A great climb with some crums near the bottom, but great rock the rest of the way.
You can traverse in from the right, past the starting flake on 'Talking Out Of Turn and establish a belay on a few stoppers at the base of this climb.
Carry a rack of nuts, a run of small cams (to 0.75") and a 2-2.5" cam. The crux is getting the feet over the lip on a rounded finger-lock above a good nut (maybe a #5 BD stopper or equiv?) For people with small fingers like mine, the top is not difficult at all, but still needs pro. Doubles in thin fingers cam-size (first-second knuckle) will be useful if you like lots of gear, but are not required.
If this thing continued another 50', it would be a 4-star classic. Sadly, it is a short line.
Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11-
Although I didn't get this clean, I enjoyed the struggle. The moves through the small roof were bizarre for me. This climb is a bit tainted by the more recent bolted route to the right. On the FA it would have been obvious to stem to the right and step right for a rest, but now that the other route is there doing that felt like cheating. But I did it anyway.
The finger crack at the top is short but real nice.
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Mar 7, 2013 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
The crux on this is short but definitely in the 11a range. There are only a few moves at this level, but they definitely exist.
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado May 3, 2014 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon.