Windy is the obscure classic just right, around the corner from the Aerospace arete. This is a very unique route for Eldo for its second pitch chimney, but full on Eldo weirdness on the crux first pitch...Teeter up a steep slab as shown in the new book topo (hairy 5.9) or walk from the left above. Surmount a leaning tower of choss and unload some good gear. Do the super commiting move above and tiptoe up to a belay under the chimney. Ascend the well protected chimney and turn the awesome roof up into a dihedral...Belay or continue up and right of the roof to a ledge, place a small wire or two and do some cool moves up toward the next ledge...The best belay is out left on the arete (Aerospace). My choice for the best final pitch is Aeronaut (11a), up the arete. Walk off...
This route was rated 10d in the old Rossiter guide. NOT! The pure power lieback move off the top of the pillar is very hard. As I fell off it repeatedly (on toprope, of course), I was thinking to myself, "This isn't 5.10!" Glad to see it has a more correct rating here.
It also is a serious lead. Definitely bring a #5 Camalot to protect the start. Otherwise, this is X rated.
I didn't have a #5 Camalot and thought it was ok -- other than the runnout above the crux where you're gonna eat shit anyway. I got a #3 and 4 Camalot about 1 foot underneath where the 5 would have gone and several wires above the #5 placement. Either way, commiting to the crux is scary and a wee bit hard even for the grade given here.
I disagree w/ some of the above comments. First of all, you're probably better off without the #5 Camalot -- it's likely to block some good heel/toe action and there is plenty of higher albeit smaller gear to be had. Second of all, don't even think about laybacking: face climb using the wide crack for feet.
I found the first two moves off of the pedestal to be the technical crux, but the business is committing to and pulling onto the hanging arrete just after.Note that medicore gear can be placed from the middle of this sequence which will greatly reduce the "eat shit" factor that Brad Bond referred to, but fiddling with it may well blow your onsite. At any rate, the ten feet of climbing off the pedestal is the sort of fabulous sequence that make Eldo special in spite of all the rotten bands.
How to start:1. Walk in from the left. This is easy, lame and makes the first moves the crux.2. Straight up the slab. Nice climbing, but no pro. Easy for Eldo 5.9. If the leader goes this way and continues through the crux, the second probably should take option 1 as there will be a big horizontal in the rope, making the slab almost as dangerous as for the leader.3. Up the strenuous overhanging corner and cracks on right side of the pillar (5.9+). Strenuous for a brief spell. The most direct line, the best warmup and probably the way to go.
How to finish:After P2, we continued more or less straight up which we found to be well protected 5.8 ending at the walkoff ledge just south of where Bachar Yer Arayan finsihes. The second half of this 100' pitch was fairly uninspiring and passes through a hideous 10' rotten section. An alternate finish is recommended.
Gear beta: there is a good placement for the smallest (yellow) ball nut about seven feet above the pedestal at the start of the crux. This can be backed up with a good blue Alien and a couple of mediocre small RPs.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jun 27, 2005 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Fun. The climb can be protected without the #5 but I admit. I'd always take the #5. Then again I am a pansy & like gear at my waist. Regardless, I was surprised to find an elegant solution to the power climbing. I did span the wall to get started with a right foot in a mega-high layback, then did something a little different (shameless beta to follow): I matched my left arm in the layback by under-handed (like undercling) palm-slapping the wall with the left hand under the right, then plopped my knee into a NO HANDS kneebar. I let go and grabbed the jug and it was over. That's the sort of elegant solution that makes my day, and makes me feel like I am doing a unique and cool climb. OK OK, knee bars are for sissies. No less, I liked it. YMMV depending on foot placement, leg length and ability to get into the right layback to start with.
So, I guess I have to disagree with some of the comments here.... We did not think this thing deserves "neglected classic" status. My partner and I have been doing a lot of the more obscure lines in Eldo lately, and we've nearly always been pleasantly surprised, but not with this one.
It's a one move wonder crux that's literally the first move of the climb (assuming you walk in from the side and skip the unprotected slab start). The chimney was unique for Eldo, but the amount of dirt, lichen, and loose rock here and on the rest of the route made it hard to enjoy the climbing. Overall, so-so climbing and plenty of choss.
I would be sure to do every other 5.11 on this wall before getting on this thing. "On the crest", a variation to Rincon, is another obscure one that we found to be quite fun.