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Meilee Area
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She had nothing to do with it 
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Worst Idea Of The Century Crack 

Windwalker 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Bernd and Andy, circa 2009
Page Views: 635
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Jan 9, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Obscure, but rad. Start on the two edges in the bo...

Description 

Start low in the small alcove with two edges close to each other. Negotiate your way to the arete to climber's right, and compress your way to victory using holds on the arete and the obvious water runnel.

In a nice, relatively secluded spot. Great fun.

If anyone has info for this problem, please share. I'm sure it's been done before.


Location 

Located 10 feet directly right of the start of Breathless, this problem is on a boulder that is on the other side of the tree that shades Breathless.


Protection 

pads



Photos of Windwalker Slideshow Add Photo
Me about to go for the crux.
Me about to go for the crux.
Comments on Windwalker Add Comment
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By Bob Banks
Jan 10, 2013

Sean, from your description, I'm pretty sure that this is right next to the classic one-mover Brute Force.

O11: Page 67, problem 23 - "Project V? - The sloping rail directly left of Brute Force"

I can't even remember it, but yeah, probably been done after all these years. Nice job.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 10, 2013

Bernd and I did it years ago. About three or four, if memory serves. We thought it was a V7, and we didn't name it. Sean, if you can think of a moniker, be my guest.

I like this line. Grunty. Burl. Fun.

By Sean Denny
From: Portland
Jan 11, 2013

Well, the corridor it sits in is certainly on the breezy side of things. If we called it "Windwalker" would that suit everyone?

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 13, 2013

Done. Great name. I changed it on the heading.

By Tim King
Jan 20, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

Sweet, glad to see this here. Did the stand (from just after the sit start crux) a while ago, but kept forgetting to go back and work the whole shebang. Love the left hand slope rail on this one, good fun and fairly unique (for the area) movement. For sure will have to get out on this tomorrow.

Edit: Nabbed this one right as the rain was coming in. Finally dialed in the crux as I noticed a few scarce drops. I knew I only had one more good try. A quick change of beta for the top section, a final brushing, and then the crux. Reach, stick! A few moments later I was on top. Just in time, as I was able to pack and make it back to the car seconds before the real rain hit.

By Antonio Labaro
Apr 20, 2014
rating: V6 7A

This problem has some great moves!

I think the way I did this is much easier than what's shown in the picture.
BETA:
From the sit, I went up with the left hand and fell into the bottom of the runnel instead of the bad pocket. Then I went out far right to the other side of the arete, which is a sandy jug. From there I could adjust my body and easily bump my right hand to the front sloper. The rest isn't too bad.