Winds of Fortune 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Kimball and Hladick, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | s.kimball on Nov 5, 2009 |
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is perhaps not as classic as other Bookend 3 star routes but a very good varied route with a thin 1st pitch crux and a burly 3rd pitch roof.
Start 200 feet around and right uphill of OJ following below the base of the offset buttress forming the Bookend's east face. Begin at a flat spot below a hanging flake and above that a small pine that marks the 1st belay station.
P1. Up the hanging flake (creaky) hand traverse right at a horizontal break to a stance. Cut back left via a thin crack to the belay pine, 5.10a, 100 feet.
P2. Easy up and left over a chasm to a belay at a juniper. This is only several ft right of Sorcerer/Mariner dihedrals.
P3. Climb into a pleasant chimney then handjam over a roof with a double crack 5.10a and complete a long pitch to a belay in a dihedral system.
P4. 200 feet of low 5th class to the summit.
Protection Standard rack.
Location This is to the right of Sorcerer/Climb of the Ancient Mariner.
| Comments on Winds of Fortune |
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By s.kimball
Nov 6, 2009
| Perhaps not as classic as other Bookend 3 star routes but a very good varied route with a thin 1st pitch crux and a burly 3rd pitch roof. Start 200ft around and right uphill of OJ following below the base of the offset buttress forming the Bookend's east face. Begin at a flat spot below a hanging flake and above that a small pine that marks the 1st belay station. 1. Up the hanging flake (creaky) hand traverse right at a horizontal break to a stance.Cut back left via a thin crack to the belay pine, 5.10a, 100ft. 2. Easy up and left over a chasm to a belay at a juniper. This is only several ft right of Sorcerer/Mariner dihedrals. 3. Climb into a pleasant chimney then handjam over a roof with a double crack 5.10a and complete a long pitch to a belay in a dihedral system. 4. 200 ft of low 5th class to the summit. Standard rack. |
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