|Filet de Papillon Wall AKA Dirt Wall
Climb out of the shallow cave on loose flakes that look like they should fall right off. Pull the lip of the cave on underclings to a nice jug, firmly held in place by glue. Pull a technical sequence on small crimps to get established on the headwall.
Continue up following a wondering path encountering an occasional rest mixed in with some hard moves. At the last bolt pull a final hard to read crux to get a jug and a huge reach rightwards to another jug and easier moves to the anchors.
Starts out of the rights side of the cave. Name and an inaccurate 7C grade are written on the rock. There is even an arrow between the inital bolts in case you get lost.
After pulling the lip and obtaining the jug don't continue to head left into "Insider Trading" This is "Fair Trade" 13b/c. Once on the headwall it can be quite confusing about where to go, but while the route meanders back and forth the line generally heads straight up.
9 Bolts to hidden Anchors until you get past the last bolt. Consider unclipping the first bolt for ropedrag and belayer courtesy.
Ruben making long reaches starting up the long wan...
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 22, 2008
This is a really fun route that wanders quite a bit on the long head wall. Though the start is quite scary, those flakes could use some help.
|By lance hadfield|
Dec 21, 2008
It had been forever sense I climbed this route. it is fun with some great rests and a couple interesting cruxes. it should get far more traffic then it does.