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P1 start. Handcrack through roof of p2 seen above....
All pitches is felt harder than it rated, but pitches 2 and 3 is very good. Route is rarely climb and there a lot of unstable blocks. Be careful on what you pull and where you placing you pro.
P1. Probably hardest 10c I've ever climbed. Follow obvious thin crack system. Crux is where you do unsecured face moves on tinny pro. Belay below the roof, 100ft.
P2. Approach to roof looks little duty. After that root is very clean. Climb #2 camelot size roof, doing one very powerful move around the lip. Than you enter via clean hand/fist crack into very long 200 ft chimney. Go up until you have rope, pro and no rope drug after the roof. 10b, 100ft
P3. Climb easy chimney with some pro . You see in the end of the chimney intimidating roof and could not believe it is 10a after climbing first two severely sandbagged pitches. But surprisingly this thing is easier than it looks. You climb under roof as high as your can squeezed your body place #4 , dounclimb and go outside of the chimney basically doing crux of the pitch on top rope. One of the coolest pitches. 10a ,180ft
Same approach as for Windfall. Route located on the right side of Tower of Cosmic Wind. Second pitch roof 10b and huge chimney is very obvious figures of the route
double from black alien to #4
Rappel from the top of the tower as for Windfall using trees with slings and rings. Second and third trees look scary. We back them up with big nuts. I forget to bring bolt kit to make rappel safe
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 8, 2014
Also thought p1 was hard climbing a ways over small gear. Stiff warmup that you want to bring your A-game for.
Pitches 2 and 3 are just incredible, classic climbing.
Will definitely do this route again.
We continued up to the valley rim, so not sure about raps. Have heard that someone may have bolted - not confirmed.