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Dome Rock
Routes Sorted
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Anti-Jello Crack T 
Arwen T 
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 
Close To The Edge T,S 
Good Samaritan, The T 
Just Barely T,S 
Last Dihedral, The T 
Last Homely House T 
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Old Man Quiver S 
Red Mushrooms T 
Sanitarium T,S,TR 
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Windjammer T 
Unsorted Routes:

Windjammer 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Neil Carlos, Dick Leversee, H. and E. Laeger (1975)
Page Views: 1,605
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006

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Description 

Windjammer starts well down on the lower face of the Dome and takes one of the longest lines to the summit. On your way down you'll pass Tobin's Dihedral and then a large pillar/block that rests against the face. The face is obvious -- a sea of giant knobs and chickenheads. The remains of an old motorcycle are in the woods near the start.

P1: This is a unique and amazing pitch. Begin by lassoing an obvious knob 20' up with the rope (it helps to stand up on a block to do this), and then delicately TR through the crux, hoping the rope doesn't fall down, until you can sling the knob for pro. The line trends leftwards and has a fair amount of traversing. Pro consists entirely of slung knobs (although I did slot in a wire between chickenheads at on point). Three times on the climb I pulled up several armloads of slack and lassoed chickenheads above to protect the climbing. Simply unreal. Belay at a two-bolt anchor. 5.10 R.

P2: If my memory serves me, one continus up on slabby rock and then enters a beautiful lieback hand crack and follows this to the next belay. I believe there were a few old bolts (in need of replacement) protecting some slab moves on this pitch. 5.10 PG13.

P3: Continue up on easier, bolt protected, slab to any of a number of anchors on low angle rock below a long roof band. Scramble off left under the roof to the summit, or rap with two ropes. 5.9+ PG13.

Protection 

A very light rack plus a dozen shoulder-length slings. Rodeo skills.


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By Murf
Jul 14, 2008

A few points; Windjammer is not past Tobin's Dihedral, but rather before. In fact, the best way to locate it might be to find Tobin's and work right. I believe the hardest moves are at the start, while protected by the the "rope over chickenhead". The crux may be feeling your way through the route, as the path isn't always obvious.

The first pitch could be considered runout for both leader and follower as it traverses quite a bit at the first dike feature. However, the climbing is not at grade.

The first belay is two modern bolts with rings, I don't know the distance to the ground. However, we did scope some slings lower and left that could be an intermediate station. The second pitch is quite fun, the crack is very easy. The second bolt is impossible to see from the top of the crack, but the way is fairly obvious.

A dozen might not be enough slings, as you need to both sling the knobs, and extend them.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Aug 21, 2008

Agreed. The route is located right (north) of Tobin's, Left Crack, and Arch Bitch-Up
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jul 18, 2011

A couple of corrections to the route description. First, the second pitch is only 5.8 or so, not 5.10, but runout in true Dome Rock style. The third pitch also has a short section of 5.8 past a bolt right off the belay and then eases off considerable to the top (no pro though). Finally, as Murf suggested, the second should be solid at the grade as, since the first pitch meanders so much, weighting the rope might pull your tie-offs from a side or upward direction and possibly pull them off the knob, leaving a big, sideways runout. I believe we took about 15 slings (including doubles) and used every one.
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 19, 2011

The blue Stonemasher Guide made this sound like a fun and interesting 5.9 but somehow we ended up on the much harder Windlord to the left. It seemed pretty stout for 5.9 and maybe it was a high gravity day we thought but later checking the guidebook it made more sense. Make sure to check the guidebook as distinguishing between the starts of the surrounding climbs can be confusing!

The remains of the old motorcycle are at the base of the appropriately named Funeral For a Friend. Legend has it a wild reveler rode his motorbike in ever widenening circles atop the rock until finally riding off the edge to land at the base of the rock several hundred feet below. Soon after a route was climbed starting from the wreckage and the name was too obvious. As if the tourists throwing rocks isn't bad enough!