|The Widow's Tears Area
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 500'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Mark Chapman, Kevin Worrall, 1976|
|Page Views: ||679|
|Submitted By: ||Alexey on Oct 22, 2009|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Here's a crappy topo of the route. The photo was t...
P1. Thin crack, some off-fingers, hard for 10a, 70feet
p2. Crux of the rout- turning the lip of 5 feet roof . Hard for 11a, or I did not figured out the right move. 70 feet
p3. Traverse to the base of p4. short pitch 70 of 5.8
p4. Awesome overhanging hands and fists. Remind me Pink Think at Indian creek, but much harder. I used 3 #1, 3#2, 2#3 , 1#4 Camalots and , 1#4 Friend for this pitch. 120 feet, 5.11a
p5. Thin hands, off-fingers, fingers, low angle great pitch- 120 feet 10c.
We did rappels with one 70m rope. No bolts, slings around the trees
Update from sept2012
Attention: rappel trees for last two rappels seems too scary and difficult to back up.
Whoever goes there to climb Windfall and Windjammer - take a bolt kit with you to make rappel safe
Double from green alien to #4 Camelot. Plus extra #1 and #2 Camalots for p4
p1 to the hard roof
credit : salamanizer
best pitch of the route -overhanging hands
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Jul 27, 2012
The flake which comprises the first 30ft of the climb is very hollow and scary. I linked the first two pitches.
Pitch 4 looks very intimidating from below. This pitch is awesome. Some big cams (like a #5 Camalot) is nice to have to protect the start of the pitch. Pitch 5 is also nice, except for a scary block about 15ft up. Some of the rap trees are a little bit small and scary too.
Basically this is a very wild and adventurous feeling climb with little fixed pro, some loose rock, and a pretty remote location. Also very well shaded, breezy, and an excellent choice to beat the heat in summer.
|By Rob Dillon|
Jun 7, 2013
Summiting the wall via Breezin' is adventurous and fun, but not as well-travelled as Windfall. As a bonus, you top out on Stanford Point and get to walk down on a signed NPS trail.