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The Widow's Tears Area
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Windfall 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Chapman, Kevin Worrall, 1976
Page Views: 1,128
Submitted By: Alexey on Oct 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Here's a crappy topo of the route. The photo was t...

Description 

P1. Thin crack, some off-fingers, hard for 10a, 70feet
p2. Crux of the route- turning the lip of 5 feet roof . Hard for 11a, or I did not figured out the right move. 70 feet
p3. Traverse to the base of p4. short pitch 70 of 5.8
p4. Awesome overhanging hands and fists. Remind me Pink Think at Indian creek, but much harder. I used 3 #1, 3#2, 2#3 , 1#4 Camalots and , 1#4 Friend for this pitch. 120 feet, 5.11a
p5. Thin hands, off-fingers, fingers, low angle great pitch- 120 feet 10c.
We did rappels with one 70m rope. No bolts, slings around the trees

Update from sept2012
Attention: rappel trees for last two rappels seems too scary and difficult to back up.
Whoever goes there to climb Windfall and Windjammer - take a bolt kit with you to make rappel safe

Protection 

Double from green alien to #4 Camelot. Plus extra #1 and #2 Camalots for p4


Photos of Windfall Slideshow Add Photo
p1 to the hard roof <br />credit : salamanizer
p1 to the hard roof credit : salamanizer
best pitch of the route -overhanging hands <br />credit: Salamanizer
best pitch of the route -overhanging hands credit:...

Comments on Windfall Add Comment
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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jul 27, 2012

The flake which comprises the first 30ft of the climb is very hollow and scary. I linked the first two pitches.

Pitch 4 looks very intimidating from below. This pitch is awesome. Some big cams (like a #5 Camalot) is nice to have to protect the start of the pitch. Pitch 5 is also nice, except for a scary block about 15ft up. Some of the rap trees are a little bit small and scary too.

Basically this is a very wild and adventurous feeling climb with little fixed pro, some loose rock, and a pretty remote location. Also very well shaded, breezy, and an excellent choice to beat the heat in summer.
By Rob Dillon
Jun 7, 2013

Summiting the wall via Wind Chill is adventurous and fun, but not as well-travelled as Windfall. As a bonus, you top out on Stanford Point and get to walk down on a signed NPS trail.
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 6, 2014

Approach: Park at Wawona Tunnel Lot and walk east, down the road, towards the Valley. You can see the Widow's Tears Amphitheater from the road. The route is on the buttress that forms the right side of the amphitheater.

Look for a large, deep natural drainage down off the right side of the road - it's a ways down the road. Start hiking uphill just past this drainage. Go uphill through trees and mossy boulders until you reach an old roadbed that runs parallel to Highway 41.

A few cairns on the old road mark the spot to continue uphill. If you don't see them just continue uphill through a large talus field trending towards the right side of the formation. We found it easiest to follow the talus drainage all the way to the base of the wall, a few hundred meters right of the start of the route. This makes for an easier traverse over to the base.

Descent: You can rap Windfall with a single 70m rope in three rappels. As of 10/2014, the first rap anchor, at the top of the 10c splitter, consists of two nice fixed nuts and a sling. The next two stations are rat's nests of slings on decently solid trees. Consider bringing some webbing/cordage to clean up the rap anchors if you're planning on rapping the route.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Oct 6, 2014

those " decently solid trees" is the time bomb.
Once I came up with bolt kit, but did not have time to drill.
Please consider to replace the slings crap with bolts