Windex 5.6 A3
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.6 A3 [details] |
| FA: | Chris Harkness, Andrew Knoflicek |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | summer |
| Submitted By: | chrisharkness on Jul 11, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: It's the dihedral on the right. As you can see, th...
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description I couldn't believe this route hadn't been done. Working as a guide out there during the summer of '05, I spotted this line and climbed it on an unseasonably cool July day.
This is just another classic obvious plumb line to the top. This route took about 10 hours and included lots of tricky aid placements; beaks, hooks, shallow tied-off and equalized pins, and some creativity throughout the entire first 2 pitches, and then finishes with a 5.6 chimney. I never did fall on the route, though it seemed a fall would have been clean, and on occasion, one manages to find a fairly solid pin placement.
I would be very interested to hear anyone's comments on this route. I believe this will be thoroughly enjoyable for any aid climber or big wall climber in training(as would many of the routes on the tower, I'm sure).
Location This is the left facing dihedral on the right side of the "Window" formation. One crack left of "Lucifer's Ledges", and four cracks right of "The Skunk". A bit of a scramble to get to the base of the route. We descended the Standard Meadows rappel route.
Protection Nothing fixed. Bring a couple hooks, birdbeaks, knifeblades, lost arrows, tat for tying off, and a single standard rack to #4 Camalot (heavy on small stuff).
Belaying at the top of pitch 2. The roof was a lit...
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