|South and East Faces
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I couldn't believe this route hadn't been done. Working as a guide out there during the summer of '05, I spotted this line and climbed it on an unseasonably cool July day.
This is just another classic obvious plumb line to the top. This route took about 10 hours and included lots of tricky aid placements; beaks, hooks, shallow tied-off and equalized pins, and some creativity throughout the entire first 2 pitches, and then finishes with a 5.6 chimney. I never did fall on the route, though it seemed a fall would have been clean, and on occasion, one manages to find a fairly solid pin placement.
I would be very interested to hear anyone's comments on this route. I believe this will be thoroughly enjoyable for any aid climber or big wall climber in training(as would many of the routes on the tower, I'm sure).
This is the left facing dihedral on the right side of the "Window" formation. One crack left of "Lucifer's Ledges", and four cracks right of "The Skunk". A bit of a scramble to get to the base of the route. We descended the Standard Meadows rappel route.
Nothing fixed. Bring a couple hooks, birdbeaks, knifeblades, lost arrows, tat for tying off, and a single standard rack to #4 Camalot (heavy on small stuff).
Belaying at the top of pitch 2. The roof was a lit...