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> Joshua Tree NP
> Quail Springs Area
> Vagmarken Hill
> Vagmarken Hill…
> (b) Vagmarken Buttres…
Wind Tower
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 17
votes
Routes in (b) Vagmarken Buttress Left
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Podium of Indecision, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vagabonds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Vagmarken Buttress T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Wind Tower T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Bob and Yvonne Gaines, 1-96 |
| Page Views: | 3,201 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Brandt Allen on Aug 27, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Another excellent Bob Gaines line, well worth the somewhat arduous (by Joshua Tree standards) approach and descent. Start about 20 ft. up and left of the gully immediately left of The Podium of Indecision. The route goes pretty much up the center of the face. Get a couple of good pieces in down low, then climb a short bit of run-out face on positive holds (fun 5.6ish). The rest of the route has very adequate gear, following cracks and plentiful face holds up through a short steeper crux section, and then easier climbing past a ledge and on to the top.
Descent: There is a bolted anchor for a new route north of the top of this climb. A single rope rap gets you to the bottom. From there, scramble and walk down to the west and then back around left toward the road.
Unless you're planning to do other routes nearby, I'd recommend going "Joshua Tree alpine style" by leaving packs and other gear at the base of the rocky hillside below the route so as to avoid the need to hike back to the start of the climb.
Descent: There is a bolted anchor for a new route north of the top of this climb. A single rope rap gets you to the bottom. From there, scramble and walk down to the west and then back around left toward the road.
Unless you're planning to do other routes nearby, I'd recommend going "Joshua Tree alpine style" by leaving packs and other gear at the base of the rocky hillside below the route so as to avoid the need to hike back to the start of the climb.
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