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Vagmarken Buttress Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Podium of Indecision, The T 
Vagabonds T 
Vagmarken Buttress T 
Wind Tower T 

Wind Tower 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines, 1-96
Page Views: 1,297
Submitted By: Brandt Allen on Aug 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Louise Borda on The Wind Tower

Description 

Another excellent Bob Gaines line, well worth the somewhat arduous (by Joshua Tree standards) approach and descent. Start about 20 ft. up and left of the gully immediately left of The Podium of Indecision. The route goes pretty much up the center of the face. Get a couple of good pieces in down low, then climb a short bit of run-out face on positive holds (fun 5.6ish). The rest of the route has very adequate gear, following cracks and plentiful face holds up through a short steeper crux section, and then easier climbing past a ledge and on to the top.

Descent: There is a bolted anchor for a new route north of the top of this climb. A single rope rap gets you to the bottom. From there, scramble and walk down to the west and then back around left toward the road.
Unless you're planning to do other routes nearby, I'd recommend going "Joshua Tree alpine style" by leaving packs and other gear at the base of the rocky hillside below the route so as to avoid the need to hike back to the start of the climb.

Location 

Far left side of Vagmarken Buttress area.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches. While the pro is generally good, there is one short run-out section, and some placements are a bit tricky; maybe not a climb for a beginner 5.7 leader.


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Brandt Allen on The Wind Tower
Brandt Allen on The Wind Tower

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By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 8, 2015

that topside bolted rap anchor to climber's left has an upper rap chain that seems oddly too short, that it could use a few more links. it doesn't dangle down past the bulge to be level with the other lower rap ring but remains on the topside, making the rope go up and abrade around the top unnecessarily on the pull
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