Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route
||Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA: ||Bruce Spozi, Steve Matous, 1980.|
|Season: ||Autumn, when it is not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||181|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 1, 2007|
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A mellow & moderate route that is better than it looks from the ground. Perhaps 5.5 or 5.6 in grade, and pretty well-protected.
Climb up from the ground into the left-facing corner and past an old angle piton. The climbing is pretty solid and far better than it appears to be from the ground. The good holds are solid and clean. Continue upward and tending right onto additional cracks for 1/2 a rope length and belay, or continue up and right past a tree with ledges, and then right 6-8 meters on a ledge to good, right-leaning cracks with good locks and jams up to a second, large shelf.
From there, we wandered far right to a pretty, knife-blade arete to finish instead of one of several obvious and mellow finishes directly ahead. We called the finish the 'Sunset Arete
Ergo, we did not do what we presume to be one of the various possibilities for the original 3rd pitch of the original route.
Not too far right of Center on Sunset Wall, and just right of the massive overhang a the wall's mid-height, a broken, left-facing corner rises from the ground. A small amount of vegetation in or near it helps to obscure an old angle piton perhaps 5 meters up. Start here, perhaps 150 feet uphill of the "2 pins" area.
A standard light rack should do. You can link the first 2 pitches with a long rope. If finishing on 'Sunset Arete
' then take some thin gear.
|Comments on Wind Song Dihedral aka Original Route
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 29, 2008
This route is called Wind Song Dihedral. FA: Bruce Spozi, Steve Matous 1980.