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wind sand stars in kolob
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Apr 17, 2012
I have a friend interested in doing this route with me and would love some first hand beta (gear, descent info, pucker factor, any trouble finding it, etc...)
Anyone done it?

Thanks!
-Mike
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Apr 17, 2012
We bailed on this several years ago, I think maybe 6 or so pitches up. Aiding was maybe a touch more involved than the brassy part on desert shield, but this route gets a ton of sun (like all day) which we were unprepared for. Bring a bunch of water and standard desert trickery. i recall using ballnuts. The freeclimbing was hard at the grade and sandy, like everything in kolob.

is that you Layton?
Tico
Joined Feb 24, 2006
4 points
Apr 18, 2012
this "Layton" sounds like a real cool guy notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Apr 18, 2012
We went up a few years ago for a free bid... made it to a similar height before being hit by a snow storm. I remember thinking it was quite "adventurous" and we hadn't even made it to the "adventurous" part of the route yet. Specifically I remember thinking if I ever went back I'd never want to lead the pitches I lead ever again... but I wouldn't want to lead the pitches my partner lead either. That said, if your partner drops out look me up - I'd zip up there from Vegas to give it another go. Josh Janes
Joined Jun 8, 2001
7,838 points
Apr 18, 2012
cool thank for the info guys. If the partner bail's I contact you.
So, would you say the Lowe may have had some first ascent excitement when describing the route as one of the finest long free climbs in north america?
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Administrator
Apr 18, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Josh Janes wrote:
We went up a few years ago for a free bid... made it to a similar height before being hit by a snow storm. I remember thinking it was quite "adventurous" and we hadn't even made it to the "adventurous" part of the route yet. Specifically I remember thinking if I ever went back I'd never want to lead the pitches I lead ever again... but I wouldn't want to lead the pitches my partner lead either. That said, if your partner drops out look me up - I'd zip up there from Vegas to give it another go.


i find it pretty sobering that josh wouldn't want to lead a pitch again. yikes.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,071 points


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