Wind Protected Climbs in RR

Anyone know what the best wind protected areas of RR are? Heading there this weekend and it looks like it's going to be pretty blustery. Prefer trad routes in the 5.8-10b range. Thanks.

Chuck, the Black Velvet routes deep in, a brand new one we put in all the way back out to Epinephrine and more particularly the ones centered on Texas Tower (Yellow Rose) to Texas Connection is a great one in your grade range) are fairly well protected at times, depending on conditions of course. The Black Velvet Wall proper is protected down low but can get strong wind on the upper pitches at the very same time..you can feel this effect when you rap....wind, to no wind. Whiskey Peak, particularly Triassic and Ixtlan, takes the most wind coming out of this canyon....some unique routes like Our Father can be protected depending on certain conditions. Windy Peak, despite its name, offers protection (via the huge Jubliant Song corner) for routes like Western Swing until they reach the easier upper reaches, then the summit itself is well deserving of the name, but it is a walk off vs rap which is advantageous in the wind. Eagle Wall is brutal and normally gets zero protection from the wind. Icebox Canyon routes offer good protection typically. Adventure Punks is typically not bad, Crimson and Cloud Tower not so good. Brownstone Wall south not bad (Times Up and Nightcrawler), Brownstone Wall north not so good. Rainbow Wall's right hand routes are bad, Bird Hunter, etc. Wilson's Horseshoe Wall can be decent (Gwondonna Land and Dogma)...Wilson's Aeolian Wall not so much. Cactus Flower Tower (Warrior , Cinnamon and Impulse can be protected depending on conditions) First Creek's Alcohol Wall is well protected. The route Celtic Cracks can be as well. Good luck on your trip...I will be climbing towers in Moab and I see 4 days of 25mph. Unusual duration for the desert really.

Thanks Dow! We ended up heading back into the canyon and did Epi on Saturday in perfect conditions. Went back Sunday and had a mini epic getting blown off of Wholesome Fullback and then Our Father. Made for some interesting rappels. Was going to run up Triassic to finish the day off but I watched the guys ahead of us getting whipped around up high and called it day.

Dow Williams wrote:a brand new one we put in all the way back out to Epinephrine