Wind Beneath the Devil's Wings  5.10a

97 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Jason Haas and Tony Bubb, 10/6/07 New Route:  Yes Season:  Autumn, when not closed or snowed in Submitted By:  Tony B on Oct 7, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

A 125' route with perhaps 50' of meat and 75' of cruise. But the cruise is pleasant and does not detract from the route at all.
Walk North along the base of the cliff to come to a large inset. There are a few trees at the base, and growing in the wall of the left side. On the right, a long slab with some cracks rises to below a dark red and brown band of rock, which on the left-facing corner of the right side is capped by two roofs. Climb the slab to the first of the two roofs and undercling and jam right under the roof (protect now) to turn the corner and get established in an obtuse dihedral with a tiny seam (no pro now) make a few awkward moves (crux, 10a) to stand up high and reach better holds. Continue in the corner to the second roof, which is easily enough passed by going right below it to a ledge, then up on easy cracks to the summit.
To descend, look Northward to a pine with a sling and ring anchor. Scramble around past this on the back side, then down the low angle rock to reach it. A 60M rope will easily get you down.

Location 

About 2/3 of the way left along the length of the summit ridge of the West Face of the Devil's Wings. This climb is in the right side of a very large inset in the rock, which is capped by a set of very large red-brown bulges on the right side. The climb ascends the right side of this inset, traversing out and right under both roofs through the band.

Protection 

A standard rack to 3.5" including longer slings. The initial slab is seldom protected, but the available gear is very good and the climbing easy.