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Wind and Rattlesnakes 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Amy Whisler
Page Views: 6,892
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Me fighting through the pump to the anchors.

Description 

Sweet movement. Pretty and continuous. Start with a few easier pulls heading up and right into the bulging start. Don't think its over too soon. Keep on it!

Location 

Wind and Rattlesnakes is the first line to the right of the vertical face to BIG roof (Rode Hard 12c and others). It climbs easily up into a corner before heading right across the bulging face.

Protection 

5 or 6 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Wind and Rattlesnakes Slideshow Add Photo
Relishing the exquisite prow of Wind & Rattlesnake...
Relishing the exquisite prow of Wind & Rattlesnake...
cody catching air from the crux
cody catching air from the crux
Me again-- I think I made this clip harder than it...
Me again-- I think I made this clip harder than it...
Setting up for the cruxy sidepull middle section.
Setting up for the cruxy sidepull middle section.
T. Chrudinsky climbs perfect pockets on the final ...
T. Chrudinsky climbs perfect pockets on the final ...
Onsighting wind and rattlesnakes 5.12a.
Onsighting wind and rattlesnakes 5.12a.
clippin'
clippin'

Comments on Wind and Rattlesnakes Add Comment
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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 27, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I loved this route. It's surprisingly pumpy pulling through those final pockets on the final headwall!
By jbak
Aug 15, 2008

You guys are easy with the stars. I'm pushing to give it 3. It's a good route though. 65 feet !? I'll bet it's 50 max.
By djkyote
Sep 12, 2009

first 12. one of a kind.
By dnoB ekiM
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great Route! Appears to be recently rebolted with glue-ins. Anyone know what type of bolt the second glue-in is? Really thin in comparison to the others. I'm not saying anything is wrong with that bolt; I'm just interested in what it is. Saw a similar one on another route or two at Wild Iris (first bolt of Limestone Cowboy).
By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 19, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The really thin glue-in bolt that you are asking about is titanium. Sam Lightner has been rebolting routes in Lander, and he has been using glue-ins. Some of the first routes he rebolted, he used titanium bolts left over from his days in Thailand.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Jun 12, 2015

Hi Guys.
The Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund, which is part of the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance (handles access, rebolting, youth climbing programs, and of course the International Climbers Festival) is the rebolting agent here. We use a host of bolts, most of them glue ins.

In this case we did not use Titanium, though it does look that way. These bolts are thinner and harder to see than the fat Fixe bolts, but they are actually stronger. They are made of 6mm 316 SS and have a 40 kilonewton, about 9000 pounds, strength ratting. Thats almost twice your average light weight carabiner. The bolts are made by Jim Titt in Germany. You will also see Fixe glue ins and Wave bolts from Climbtech, but also the occasional 1/2 inch SS powers five piece.

For what it is worth, we do need financial help with this. Give to the BARF program if you can. Each route costs about $100 to replace with this gear. We had one of the bolts on Wind and Rattlesnakes break while it was being removed, to give you some idea of the corrosion level. We hope to have the entire area done in another three years, funding provided.

Have fun. See you at the crag.
Sam
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