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The Sail
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L to R R to L Alpha
Bong Bong Firecracker 
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Wilson-Love 

Wilson-Love 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Wilson and Love....duh! 1962!
Page Views: 1,343
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Aug 10, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Steve starting the 2nd section of the climb, the r...

Description 

The original route starts near the right edge of the sail, angles left to reach a wide groove, that leans right, then traverses left at the end. An exercise in rope-drag managment, although a direct 5.7 r-ish start can help avoid the problem. Must do!


Protection 

Bring some big stuff and plenty of long runners.



Photos of Wilson-Love Slideshow Add Photo
Shove whatever body part you can get to stay in this fat fat crack and pray you get to the savior chickenhead soon.
Shove whatever body part you can get to stay in th...
Looking down on the 2nd section of the climb, the groove to jug climbing.
Looking down on the 2nd section of the climb, the ...
Comments on Wilson-Love Add Comment
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By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 12, 2008

I followed this route a few months ago, and it was sweet. the leftward traverse at the beginning is kind of hard to protect without smaller aliens or C3 or equivalent, although you probably could get some bomber small stoppers in if you are a passive-master. definately worth doing this guy, and the view is amazing. stays interesting to the end. I think we had a 60m rope and were able to rap off the top just fine.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Dec 1, 2008
rating: PG13

Burly! I don't think the smallest C3 or alien would fit anywhere at the start. It's nuts or nothing, and the placements are far from satisfying. The climbing isn't too hard but a bit insecure with high steps and gritty rock, and a fall would be disastrous. I wonder if there used to be a piton on that traverse.
Anyway, once in the groove, it stays stout. The OW on top will eat you alive. Tape up, bring large stuff (I placed everything up to 4.5) and prepare for a fight.
Rope drag isn't an issue with long runners. Solid 5.8, Satan's Corner style.

By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

I founds spots for a 0 and 00 ultralight Tcu on the start, sewed the rest up with small stoppers for sure. I recommend Tape.

By Fett
Nov 25, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Definitely satans corner 5.8 stout. I wondered if there was a pin at the start too. There are a lot of good places for a pin but have to settle with pnuts. The rock is a bit gritty but still climbs well. Old school fo sho, respect Wilson/Love... and the goat that lives there.

By samg
Mar 14, 2010

Great!

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 9, 2011

Ha! I love LCC 5.8. It feels harder than maple canyon 5.12. There are 3 distinct sections to this route, the left traverse, the right traverse, then another left traverse. The start is indeed a bit tricky with pro, but my buddy got in a good small nut. The right traverse is classic groove weirdness till you hit a cool undercling flake, then it easy huge jug climbing till the last left traverse. Anyone find themselves cursing on this last section? I love the Ruckman guide. It calls it "5.8 awkward". Perfect description if you know what that means. Wideness prevails but you can get #3/#4 camalot size gear waaaaaay back in there. Thrutch up 10 or so feet using some type of magic for technique till a glorious pizza sized chickenhead appears for a foot. Ah, 5.8. This isn't the gym!

By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Sep 4, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is stiffer, imho, than Satan's Corner, and felt about on par with any of the other 5.9s in LCC. What a phenomenal pitch of climbing!