Willy's Hand Jive
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From the bottom of Willy's Hand Jive, Escalante Ca...
This is the obvious, splitter crack across the gully from S-Crack. Climb tight hands to perfect big hands (#3 Camalot) to a funky pod (crux). It is slightly overhanging for most of the way. Excellent.
This is across the gully from S-Crack. It is easy to see from the parking area.
#1s, #2s and #3s (Camalots). Maybe a #4 just below the pod.
Patrick Ackerson at start of WHJ.
What a splitter!!!!!
|Comments on Willy's Hand Jive
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Aug 18, 2009
FA Chuck Grossman.
Apr 5, 2010
Pretty wild that the FA (according to Desert Rock, which may be inaccurate) was 1983, when 'Rusty's Cave', just to the L went up in '78. DR says descent is "walk left", but that would be pretty daunting. You might be able to head to the right and finish up 'Pair o' Grins', but I am not certain.
|By chris begue|
Jun 16, 2010
First ascent was in 1982, done by the awesome Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and a friend from Phili whose name is forgotten. There was a killer, loose block in the wide section whick may have been a factor to the lateness of the first ascent or just the remoteness of the area. Back then most of the cracks were unclimbed and ripe for first ascents by the likes of Robert Filmore, John Hulett, Dave Henritze.
Jun 16, 2010
Thanks for the info, Chris!
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Dec 1, 2010
This thing is a clinic on cupped hands at least for me anyway.
|By Ryan N|
From: Bay Area
Aug 22, 2012
Climbed this last week and I have a few pointers for finding it.
The beta says find the obvious splitter across from S Crack as viewed from the parking lot. You definitely cannot see it from the parking lot. It's on the far left of the buttress, which from the parking lot looks like it's separate. If you hike the wash from the left of the parking lot, it will gradually come into view. You will probably notice s crack on the right first, that's when you head up the hill on the left. The climb is great, bring 1, 2, 3, and 4, use face holds when you get to the pod. The chain anchor is above ledge on right.
From: saint george area
Sep 3, 2012
I felt the crack up higher was challenging #2 BDs were mostly undercammed #3 BDs were mostly overcammed till right near the pod. Friends may be better on this climb.... I also used a BD #5 in the bottom of the pod.... Three stars because of the choss bottom and funky size. Might be awesome for someone with XL or XS hands
(if you plan on TR this bring a 20' cordelette loop to extend anchor).