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Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack 
Better Left Undone 
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Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) 
S Crack 
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Willy's Hand Jive 

Willy's Hand Jive 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and friend, 1982
Page Views: 5,260
Submitted By: ChadARobinson on May 12, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Splitter.

Description 

This is the obvious, splitter crack across the gully from S-Crack. Climb tight hands to perfect big hands (#3 Camalot) to a funky pod (crux). It is slightly overhanging for most of the way. Excellent.


Location 

This is across the gully from S-Crack. It is easy to see from the parking area.


Protection 

#1s, #2s and #3s (Camalots). Maybe a #4 just below the pod.



Photos of Willy's Hand Jive Slideshow Add Photo
From the bottom of Willy's Hand Jive, Escalante Canyon.
From the bottom of Willy's Hand Jive, Escalante Ca...
What a splitter!!!!!
What a splitter!!!!!
Patrick Ackerson at start of WHJ.
Patrick Ackerson at start of WHJ.
Comments on Willy's Hand Jive Add Comment
Show which comments
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Aug 18, 2009

FA Chuck Grossman.

By slim
Administrator
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Pretty wild that the FA (according to Desert Rock, which may be inaccurate) was 1983, when 'Rusty's Cave', just to the L went up in '78. DR says descent is "walk left", but that would be pretty daunting. You might be able to head to the right and finish up 'Pair o' Grins', but I am not certain.

By chris begue
Jun 16, 2010

First ascent was in 1982, done by the awesome Chuck Grossman, Chris Begue, and a friend from Phili whose name is forgotten. There was a killer, loose block in the wide section whick may have been a factor to the lateness of the first ascent or just the remoteness of the area. Back then most of the cracks were unclimbed and ripe for first ascents by the likes of Robert Filmore, John Hulett, Dave Henritze.

By slim
Administrator
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Thanks for the info, Chris!

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Dec 1, 2010

This thing is a clinic on cupped hands at least for me anyway.

By Ryan N
From: Lone Tree, Colorado
Aug 22, 2012

Climbed this last week and I have a few pointers for finding it.

The beta says find the obvious splitter across from S Crack as viewed from the parking lot. You definitely cannot see it from the parking lot. It's on the far left of the buttress, which from the parking lot looks like it's separate. If you hike the wash from the left of the parking lot, it will gradually come into view. You will probably notice s crack on the right first, that's when you head up the hill on the left. The climb is great, bring 1, 2, 3, and 4, use face holds when you get to the pod. The chain anchor is above ledge on right.

By javi
From: saint george area
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

I felt the crack up higher was challenging #2 BDs were mostly undercammed #3 BDs were mostly overcammed till right near the pod. Friends may be better on this climb.... I also used a BD #5 in the bottom of the pod.... Three stars because of the choss bottom and funky size. Might be awesome for someone with XL or XS hands
(if you plan on TR this bring a 20' cordelette loop to extend anchor).