|f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
Not because of anything weeping, but because of the wandering P1 and some loose rock. We never got to the weepy part (actually, we never really wanted to do the route after downclimbing and rapping it to get off Triple Bulges), which is after the nice rappel at the top of P2.
Williams describes a direct variation that ascends the obvious long corner partway up P1 (essentially avoiding the last traverse) with a rating of 5.6 G to which he gives one star. It looked uninviting and I've not done it.
P1 - Climb a short left-facing corner to a stance, then move up and right to a short, wide horizontal at about 50 feet. Diagonal left to another horizontal and move still farther left to the large, obvious corner with some broken rock. Traverse left past some loose rock (scary for 5.2) to the belay tree/ledge for Twin Oaks.
P2 - Williams describes a second pitch that seems awfully close to Triple Bulges, perhaps a bit right, without the final bulges. I tried to follow it but kept ending up actually on Triple Bulges.
P3 - Avoid. From the belay tree, climb the seepy, broken 15-foot high corner to climber's left, then move left and up the grassy, easy face to the top. Definitely not worth doing.
About 35 feet right and around the corner from the obvious crack that marks Twin Oaks.
Standard Gunks rack. Williams' Guide says G, but I found P1 very PG.
Jul 19, 2010
We did the 5.6 variation yesterday - it was a lot of ... fun! (I thought) or ... yuk, loose! (Scott thought). The beginning pitch is definitely more on the PG than G side of things.
Some loose rock, yes, but lots of fun wandering back and forth between the corner and arete. One 60m will just get you down.
From: Albany, NY
Oct 18, 2011
Did the regular 1st pitch with my 12 yr old son. I thought it was a nice climb but maybe harder than 5.2 for a new leader. Nice face moves protected by aliens or C3s in pin scars then a great layback in the corner. Didn't notice much loose rock.