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 ADVANCED
Long Play Wall
Routes Sorted
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Big Man's Bane T 
Induhvidual T 
Long Play T 
Moe-hammed, Larry, & Curly T 
Muckraker T 
Willie's Danish Prince T 

Willie's Danish Prince 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr-Oct
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 30, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Setting out on the FA. Note the huge flake - you d...

Description 

The hardest moves are near the lower bolts, however, the upper face is almost equally challenging.
You do not have to touch the loose block at the start - and probably shouldn't.
Climb up onto the top of the flake, move up (bolt)and right below a bulge, passing the bulge to the right (bolt) to gain a ledge. Traverse right to a vertical crack and follow it to an overhang. Climb through the overhang at a thin seam, trend up and left (two bolts), reaching the right end of a small ledge below a final 15' slab. Climb directly up the slab to the belay ledge.
While not as thrilling as Long Play, this route provides an enjoyable alternative/additional line up the wall.


Location 

Start: On the left side of the main face, 12' left of a wide, open book/corner, at a right-facing flake below and left of a large, loose block pasted to the wall.
Unlike Induhvidual, one does not clamber up the gully to get to this route.
Descent: Rappel via 70m rope or two rappels, using fixed anchors to either side of the Long Play Wall.


Protection 

Full standard rack, including C3s or similar.
There are 4 bolts en route, two in the first 30' and two along the face climbing above the overhang.
Tree anchors are at the top.



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By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Aug 23, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Not talked about much but it should be. Very good climb and very challenging. Harder than its neighbor to the right in my opinion.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I also think this has one, maybe two 10 moves on it. Sections of quality climbing rival Long Play for 'best' on this wall.

By Jay Harrison
Sep 13, 2012

Since getting more cleaning, this route has improved markedly.
While there are a plethora of hollow flakes along the upper reaches of this route, the original ascent avoided them. I've considered prying the worst offenders off, but at the moment they all seem solid enough. These tend to be right after good bolt placements, so an incautious leader shouldn't come to harm because of them - though the belayer might!