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Williamson, Holcomb or Keller
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By G Halsne
Jun 4, 2013

I have a friend visiting from washington and were climbing for 4 straight days at random places. One thing i want to do is show him socal isnt all just ugly desert... ( his words) So i want to take him up into the mountains and have a free day to do it. Of the 3 locations in my title... Give me some opinions on these as far as:

Aesthetic
Approach
Route-finding
Overall Quality for 10a-11b Sport.

Thanks guys!

- G


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Jun 4, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

G Halsne wrote:
I have a friend visiting from washington and were climbing for 4 straight days at random places. One thing i want to do is show him socal isnt all just ugly desert... ( his words) So i want to take him up into the mountains and have a free day to do it. Of the 3 locations in my title... Give me some opinions on these as far as: Aesthetic Approach Route-finding Overall Quality for 10a-11b Sport. Thanks guys! - G


Williamson is closed to climbing, please don't mess up future access by climbing there.

Keller is pretty crappy climbing imho, although it is fairly pretty there.

Holcomb is in a very pretty location, and 10a - 11b sport routs are what holcomb is all about, so it'd be my recommendation.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jun 4, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

One thing i want to do is show him socal isnt all just ugly desert...

Dig up a rack.....

Tahquitz and Suicide.

or a pad....
Top of the Tram

or show him the finer side of urban decay

Quarry
Mt Rubidoux
Stoney Point


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Jun 4, 2013

Holcomb is what you want. Bulk of routes are right in the range you're seeking, free camping, very good rock quality, nice aesthetics/location/views. It can be crowded on the weekends (like any sport crag with a bunch of moderates).

Williamson is closed.


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By G Halsne
Jun 5, 2013

Gee, i had no idea about Williamson. Bummer. Ok, Holcomb it is! Whats the beta on the 4wd/ high clearance vehicle situation?

Thanks!


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By kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Jun 5, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks

G Halsne wrote:
Gee, i had no idea about Williamson. Bummer. Ok, Holcomb it is! Whats the beta on the 4wd/ high clearance vehicle situation? Thanks!


No 4wd/high clearance vehicle needed if you park in the normal spot by parkinglot rock. You may need a high clearance vehicle if you want to park back by motherload rock or drive right up into the central pinicles, but I've done both in a hyundai elantra before with some careful driving.


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By John Keller
Jun 5, 2013

Don know... I kinda like it when people think deserts are ugly. It helps to keep these beautiful places from getting too crowded. ;-)


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jun 5, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Keller is good if you are hiking and not climbing

Strange comment????? The hike to Keller is like 15 feet long!



Don know... I kinda like it when people think deserts are ugly. It helps to keep these beautiful places from getting too crowded. ;-)

Yes, remember the desert is an ugly ugly place.... no need to go see it any closer.


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By G Halsne
Jun 5, 2013

Heheh... I love the desert with all my heart. I think its pretty in its own way...

Tell you the truth, living in WA for the last 9 years only grew my love for chaparral... And im SO SICK of dense forests... UG green... IKKK!!!

Lol.. only sort of kidding.

So if was wanting to hit some of the best routes in the least amount of time, where would one go? Im considering taking the van and camping one nigh to get the full day and next morning too...

I have a tick list going of the best 10a to 11b routes... But ill take some opinions please! Thanks!

- g


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By jellybean
Jun 6, 2013

In my opinion keller peaks hungover wall is excellent. Segments of space(11b) is worth the trip. Its hard and sequential so don't be discouraged to throw down a couple of times there's more than one way to skin that cat. Keller has a few sub 11b's but not many. At Keller you can drop a rope from above on almost all of the routes if needed. Keller is seldom crowded and never like Holcolm. Holcolm is alright but for pure pulling Keller beats it hands down. If your set on Big Bear fishermans buttress is good. At Holcolm,for you, 2/3's of the bolted routes will be easy/uninteresting. Holcolm would be awesome if everyone with a helmet switched it out for Gilligan hats.


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By Rob M
From Fullerton, ca
Jun 6, 2013

Holcomb has at least 150 routes, and for the grade the OP wants. it is the best place hands down.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jun 6, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Holcolm would be awesome if everyone with a helmet switched it out for Gilligan hats.


Agree


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By G Halsne
Jun 10, 2013

AWESOME few days at Holcomb. Great crag! Thanks for the recomendations guys!

Although i missed a few crags, We were able to squeeze all of this into really 3.5 days:

Malibu
Echo
Riverside Quarry
5.10 Sale! Woop for 20 dollar shoes!
Holcomb for an afternoon and morning
Camped in Carpenteria
Santa Barbra Zoo ( had to please the wife too! )

Oh, and if anyone is interested, a half ton van can make it into the north parking area at Holcomb... AWD and a spotter FTW.

Holcomb- North parking area
Holcomb- North parking area


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