William  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Ben Boykin and Rob Kelman, July 2011 Submitted By:  rob.calm on Jul 28, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Showing routes in vicinity of William.

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Description 

This climb starts about 12 yards right of Morning Sickness in a wide opening with 4 cracks. Climb the middle 2 cracks as seen in the photograph. After this strenuous start, go about 60 feet to a shelf and belay. The second pitch starts in a wide chimney that after a strange move off a ledge narrows into a squeeze reminiscent of Ted’s Trot but distinctly narrower. The pitch ends with a nice finger crack leading to a belay on a wide ledge. The exit pitch is the right of 2 cracks, which are about 20 feet right of the end of p.2. The first 2 pitches are 7+; the exit pitch is 5.9.

Descend by scrambling right to the rappel bolts at the end of Bushwhack. Note: the rappel bolts above Arch Stanton are in disrepair. The climb was named in honor of William Badgett--a first ascentionist of Morning Sickness.

Protection 

0.4-4 Camalots, small tricams. A #5 Camalot is helpful.

Photos of William Slideshow

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Ben at the arduous start of the first pitch.	Rob starting pitch 2 just before it gets narrow.	The exit pitch.