Start just right of the fallen tree. (route to the right of The Penguin). Climb into a right-facing dihedral, staying a little left of the 5th bolt. Finish the route with a high hand beside and left of the anchors or traverse right at 6th bolt onto the covered ledge. (5.10'ish) It is a great dihedral with tricky feet and body positions, look for crimp on face by 3rd/4th bolt to get the feet and body up.
6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 25, 2002
Just did this route a couple days ago - tricky, esp. as a warm up! Three of us did the route, 3 different variations for doing the crux. It's a lot harder than it looks from the ground. The Joker, 3 routes to the left, is a better warm up, though that has a couple thoughtful bits as well....
Oh, and we stayed dry in the rain!
|By Paul Hunnicutt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The first 3/4 of the route has very delicate, balancey moves. Everything feels insecure like you are just about to smear off. Then a good rest and a huge jug rail to the anchors...which I eloquently flopped across in true beached whale fashion. Not sure how much fun it would be blowing the anchor clip on this climb. Satisfying climb for me though.
From: Longmont, Co.
Jul 11, 2012
1st bolt is total sketch. Finish is really weird, and reeks of rat shit.
|By erik rieger|
From: Gold Hill, CO
Jan 12, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This is up there with bad routes I've done in the canyon. The finishing move is just WEIRD.