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Nomad Dome
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Ben T 
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Last Angry Arab T 
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Willard T 

Willard 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Houser, Darryl Nakahira, Doug Zeisner, Dave Vaught, Todd Gordon, Paul Quinn and Ian Carter, November 1980
Page Views: 1,200
Submitted By: C Miller on Nov 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Albert Ramirez just over the crack and heading for...

Description 

This is a fun, well bolted (for Joshua Tree) face climb up friction face and scoops; a nice moderate far away from the usual crowds.

Note: there's a midway anchor but it can easily be done in one pitch.

Location 

Just right of the obvious crack of Last Angry Arab.

Protection 

5 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")


Photos of Willard Slideshow Add Photo
On top of Nomad Dome during the 1st week of February 2004.
On top of Nomad Dome during the 1st week of Februa...
Albert Ramirez setting a cam just below the final bolt before the belay.
Albert Ramirez setting a cam just below the final ...
4 bolts up on Willard.
4 bolts up on Willard.
Mantles, crimps, and friction.  A little of everything.  Jill near the middle if the first pitch of Willard
Mantles, crimps, and friction. A little of everyt...
Nomad Dome and a few routes.
Nomad Dome and a few routes.
Top of first pitch
Top of first pitch

Comments on Willard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark J. Nelson
Jan 9, 2003

Willard was fun. If you find the couple of runouts intimidating, they both protect easily with small tricams (0.5 through 1.5, or pink through brown).

I was not particularly motivated to climb the short, much easier second pitch; the rappel descent from the first pitch anchors is quite convenient. (And yes, they are rappel anchors, not just bolt hangers.)
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 29, 2003

I agree. this is a fun route. we didn't do the second pitch of Willard, but finished off in the upper portion of Last Angry Arab.
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 16, 2004

We did the second pitch of this route above the chains. To get off from the top go right off the back and down to a yucca with slings and a taped biner. From the tree its 100' to scrambling terrain down a chimney/gully.
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Feb 18, 2004

To get off the dome, go to the top of the dome to a gully.you will see a gully tending to the right. downclimb this to a ledge. look to the right side if this ledge. there is a two bolt rap anchor. at least there was last year. you will need two ropes to rap.
By Bo Johnston
Mar 13, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun climb! A yellow alien can be placed in the angling crack before the first bolt for piece of mind. The route is a bit run but shouldn't be a big issue. We didn't climb the second pitch (mainly 'cause of the hassle to get down) but the flake above to the last bolt looks like easy but fun climbing.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 7, 2013

FA was Todd Willard Gordon and Ian Willard Carter......two Willards.............
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 29, 2013

OMG Chris! Well bolted? There are some big run outs on this one, namely to the first bolt, and then there's a tricky bulge move just before the last bolt, blow that one and you're in for a ride. I recommend, as stated previously, taking some small cams with you to protect the opening sequence up Last Angry Arab and across to the first bolt, and for the long final runout to the last bolt, that last bolt should probably been placed just below the bulge, but a small cam will fit there so never mind.

Having bemoaned all of that I really enjoyed this route.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 1, 2014

The 2-bolt rap anchor (south facing) can be used with a single 60m and an easy downclimb.