Will Chevy Slab 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett (with Paul Bodnar? 2003?) |
| Season: | Spring to fall |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Nov 30, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Ivan at the crux. Harder than it looks from the gr...
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Description I probably would have liked it better if I was good at this sort of climbing, but I am not. This is the bolted line of eyebrows and edges just right of the Original Route on Observatory. I spent most of the time on it just hoping I would not slip off the nearly invisible holds! The crux is moving up off of holds that you feel you are perilously clinging to with friction, going to even smaller holds.
Location This route is on the right side of the main wall (left half) of the crag and just right of Original Route it follows a line of bolts up the right side of a smooth slab to a tree with a belay/rap station.
Protection 6 good bolts on a slab, not always overhead. Small cams or nuts protect a few tricky moves to get onto it.
Ivan slabbin' it at the crux.
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| Comments on Will Chevy Slab |
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By Rich Kelly
Apr 30, 2009
rating: 5.11
| Extremely thin! You only need gear getting to the 1st bolt and between the 1st and 2nd bolt (small cams). Crux is at 3rd bolt. Awkward getting to the 1st bolt and tricky getting (5.10) past it. |
By the Ascender
From: . . . CO
Jun 27, 2010
rating: 5.11 R
| Yup, looks like 5.8 from the ground.
Partner and I both thought 5.11, with an awkward but fun start to the first bolt that felt liek 5.10 - used a Lowe-ball and a blue Alien.
Desperare feeling friction work and nickel edges up higher.
Don't know why it's so RO between bolt 2 and 3, but it was sure freaky!, esp. being that it felt like the crux section.
Fun, demanding slab-work for the second, or on TR. |
By Evan S
From: Erie, CO
Apr 19, 2012
| Painful and strenuous on the feet. The guidebook gives it 10d, which is about right for a slab, I think. The top, while slightly easier, has much worse rock. |
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