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Wiled Horses gone free! This is a link-up/variation that climbs the first half of .30-06, through a 15' ceiling, to the second half of Roadrunner.
Follow the initial crack of .30-06 to the imposing roof, 10-. Powerful, dynamic, and long crux moves through the ceiling (V6-V7?) to a wild mantle (V5-V6?). I placed two protection bolts in the roof, but you still need a piece for the mantle crux at the lip. Don't blow the second clip in the roof.
Once over the lip, a bolt (there is an old useless 'mystery' bolt above the roof, skip this one and clip the new one) protects an exposed traverse into the fingers/thin-hands crux of Roadrunner finishing with wide hand crack to the anchors, 10+.
Do what you can to minimize rope drag as the zigs and zags weigh you down.
Disclaimer: Crux moves are extremely height-dependent. Rating is approximate. Maybe more like 5.12e. For crude comparison sake, I think the roof moves are considerably harder than Great Escape, Brennivin, Mighty Dog, and Rocketman. This is the hardest mixed line in the canyon.
Much thanks to Casey for his belays on my initial exploratory efforts, and patience while I drilled the bolts and worked the moves. Thanks to Mel for her belays on my redpoint attempts. And thanks to Adam for the silky belay and encouragement on my final redpoint.
Wall of the '90s, far right side.
Stoppers, #0.3 up to #2 Camalot, and two #3 Camalots for the upper crack. Back up the shitty ring pin for your first piece off the ground. There is one other pin midway up the initial crack.
Two protection bolts in the ceiling, as there is no clean pro until the lip. Another new bolt above the lip to link to the crack.
Lower off with a 70m rope.
Setting up the crux.
Photo by: Arnold Braker.
The pro placement at the lip.
FA of Wiled Horses....
|By Jason Haas|
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 29, 2008
Sick, Darren! Nice work, buddy!
|By Cassidy Hill|
Sep 4, 2008
A gymnastic and inspired rock climb. Great vision by the FA. You may just feel enticed and then trapped by this sick roof, and you are going to have to get crafty if you want to set these horses free!
|By Cody Cook|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 11, 2008
5.13 trad? That's sick Darren. Nice work, bro.
Now get back to work.
|By Luke Childers|
Oct 30, 2009
Pumped for you, Darren!!! Now go send "Glory" bro!!! I'm more than pumped to go hit that one with you again man. Oh yea... we should video your new F.A. man. Nice send!! Might check it out this weekend.. if this crap weather goes away.
|By Tank Evans|
Aug 21, 2011
Maybe the first assentionist brought a pooper-scooper up there, but currently this route sucks. Climb fun 5.11- to where WH diverges, then begin to climb through loads of bird and bat shit to a no hands under the roof. Boulder out the roof on bolts with only 1 difficult move, then awkwardly mantle onto the face and begin having fun again.
I do not know if it is one of the hardest mixed climbs in the canyon, but it certainly is the worst.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 23, 2011
Wow, those swallows must have been eating well. Tank, those two cracks do not get climbed much (star quality of them heavily dependent on poo conditions), and you are probably only the third person that has even tried the WH link. Cool that you checked it out! When I put up the var., I did clean much of the poo off the lower 10- crack of .30-06, but that was 3 years ago.
The boulder problem roof of WH probably felt soft for you at 13-, but at the time I thought it seemed about right. The bats must be new, because I don't remember seeing any bats anywhere on the right side of that wall. While you are over there, you should try Double Stout or Black and Tan for somethin' a tad more sustained at the grade. ;)
EDIT: There are only a few established harder trad/mixed routes in CCC: .30-06 (11d/12a), Wiled Horses (12e), Brennvin (12c/d), and Naked Kill (12d). Of which I personally think the latter two are better quality. Check 'em out!
|By Tank Evans|
Aug 23, 2011
Right on Darren, those two climbs to the left do look good, just need to wait till things cool off.
From: Arvada, CO
Jan 21, 2013
Poop conditions are pretty reasonable right now. Mostly it's like 10 feet of easier climbing after the last piton getting set up under the roof and there are non poopy areas that you can use for holds. A little dirty in general through that part but it would clean up with traffic or a good brushing. Once on the roof you're home...er poop-free.